|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|11-26-2007 12:22 AM|
|KeelHaulin||I am planning to install some light tackle "preventers" like those Rocketer and Randyon are suggesting; but I also want a dedicated soft vang and possibly a boomkicker. I don't think we want the preventers as the only control to keep the main pulled down; when we are in heavy air and running downwind I don't want to be controlling position of the boom by sheeting/releasing the preventers. Easier to just set the vang and then control it's position with the mainsheet.|
|11-24-2007 12:27 PM|
Originally Posted by Rockter View Post
If its a joke, its pretty funny...if it is not, then it's pretty funny too.
|11-22-2007 08:51 PM|
|RandyonR3||Just an Idea for you, On my boat, I'm unable to use the vang in its normal position as the area is obstructed by the Hard dinghy setting bottom side up...So I use two lines, one on each side, from the mast to the rail and back to the cockpit. I can uasally adjust sail shape with the traveler until the boom is outside that area and then with one or the other, I can do my adjustments... Its not as precise and its not rigid so sail shape in light air leaves a lot to be desired, but, in most other conditions, its acceptable, and it doubles as a boom break.|
|11-22-2007 07:44 PM|
Oh man. All those holes at the base of the mast !!!
Would it not be stronger, less convenient I know, but inherently stronger to use something like...?...
The mainsail is not deployed in this picture, but you can see the idea.
No holes anywhere, and it cannot let go really.
It is not so convenient when you tack or gybe, but it took us from Houston to Cork, and beyond, and has faced some heavy weather. Once kicked over, there is no way that boom is coming over on you, short of the boom breaking.
It's worth a try, and costs little, and does not need all that drilling. The attachment to the boom is a webbed strap, or you could use a rope binding.
|11-22-2007 05:21 PM|
Thanks again for all of the replies... I still don't quite understand the need for such heavy hardware on a block/tackle that is only supposed to need a SWL of ~1500#. I have a feeling that the reason newer boats have such heavy non-flexible and large surface area vang attachments is due to the much thinner mast sections and difficulty in keeping the mast from flexing/fatiguing under the loads. The mast on my boat is appx 3/16 inch thick aluminum; so I think the biggest issue is keeping the fasteners from stripping out. Looking at how this is done on your boats; maybe a used gooseneck attachment with minor mods would be the way to go. I'll check the mast dimensions and maybe the local yacht surplus will have the correct size gooseneck mount.
|11-19-2007 10:22 PM|
I like old school, big bail, thru bolted.
|11-19-2007 03:07 PM|
TB, your's is a nice piece too, and enough for what he wants. However remember his boat is a 40 footer. Higher loads obviuosly.
Mine is that way, because of the enormous loads it is subjected to. It has to wrap the mast and have all those bolts to spread the force.
I had one similar to yours in a previous boat. Helf OK, but axis bolt was allways lose..
|11-19-2007 03:00 PM|
Although much smaller than Giu's impressive custom SS fabrication, many spar manufacturers have proprietary anodized aluminum castings with a flat plate - so curvature isn't much of an issue.
Is there really a difference with a rigid vang mount? If not here's a somewhat obscurred view of the mounting plate on my boat, by Selden:
A pre-purchase detail -
|11-19-2007 02:26 PM|
I made also this drawing for you.
|11-19-2007 01:37 PM|
For a bot your size, I think you should invest some money and have a metal shop fabricate something like this for you.
Its is simple a Plate is bent to conform to your mast radius, then a hinge is welded above and bellow and tube with the fitting is held by a bolt.
Its very simple. Look at mine. You then attach with bots or rivets.
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