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Go Back   SailNet Community > General Interest > General Discussion (sailing related) > Mainsail Reefing
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Thread: Mainsail Reefing Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-17-2007 08:40 PM
Classic30 Thanks, guys

Any thoughts on how far back from the cringle the turning blocks should be? 6" or so??
12-17-2007 11:13 AM
Faster Yes, staggered... for structural reasons as per SD and consistent leech tension with either reef.
12-17-2007 11:03 AM
sailingdog I'd stagger them... that way you don't weaken the boom extrusion too much in any given area.
12-17-2007 01:34 AM
Classic30 It's been a couple of weeks, but I've almost got my boom re-done - had to change the outhaul setup first to allow for the two reefs, #1 to Starboard and #2 to Port, taking way longer than planned..

I know from an earlier thread that it doesn't make much difference how far aft the turning blocks are, so long as they are well aft of the clew cringle, but is it Standard Practice (tm) to:

(a) Fix the turning blocks on either side of the boom at the same distance along the boom? Or should they be
(b) Staggered (ie. the same distance from the respective cringles)??
12-07-2007 12:53 AM
sailingdog If you can rivet the mounting plate/riser and then screw the cam cleat to the mounting plate, that would be ideal. That's how I have attached the line clutches to my mast.
12-06-2007 06:42 PM
Classic30
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
Faster's point about making a mounting block for the cam cleat is a very good one.. you want the cam cleat's base to be as flat as possible so the cams don't jam under load.
Thanks, SD. Ronstan make a "curved riser" that sounds like it'll do the job and be heaps easier than making one.

The next trick is to work out how best to fasten it onto the boom, with such thin-walled section. Everything else is rivetted. Self-tappers perhaps??

Shoud I be using plastic or alloy cleats?
12-06-2007 08:20 AM
sailingdog Faster's point about making a mounting block for the cam cleat is a very good one.. you want the cam cleat's base to be as flat as possible so the cams don't jam under load.
12-05-2007 11:22 PM
Classic30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster View Post
hey Cam

you may find that making small saddle (starboard, or a block of wood or nylon) curved to fit your boom shape, with the camcleat mounted on that is the cleanest way to do it. Often when you try to tighten a camcleat on an uneven surface you can put enough stress on it that the cams don't move freely anymore.

If you put a fairlead behind the cleat make you you leave enough space to get in there and lift the line to release it.

Your external clew reef lines will flap around a bit if the sail is luffing, but when powered up they should be fine. Leave just enough slack to the stopper knot so that when the sail is up there's not a lot of free line to hang down, and it will be easy to make some velcro straps to keep the line alongside the boom since you're loosefooted.
Thanks, Ron - you've nailed it!

Hadn't even considered velcro straps around the boom (and neither has Giu by the look of it!).

I'll give it a try...
12-05-2007 11:02 PM
Faster
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hartley18 View Post
Thanks, Ron & SD - Camcleats it is then.

Yes, mounting will be a challenge. Any suggestions for mounting camcleats on such a thin section of aluminium? I can't really bolt it through.. Are the normal plastic cam-cleats okay for this service??

The current set-up uses a horn cleat on the bottom of the boom, which snags lines all the time. I was considering metal v-jams only because two rivets and it's mounted.

Are reefing lines on a boom likely to flog much? Must admit I've never noticed!.
hey Cam

you may find that making small saddle (starboard, or a block of wood or nylon) curved to fit your boom shape, with the camcleat mounted on that is the cleanest way to do it. Often when you try to tighten a camcleat on an uneven surface you can put enough stress on it that the cams don't move freely anymore.

If you put a fairlead behind the cleat make you you leave enough space to get in there and lift the line to release it.

Your external clew reef lines will flap around a bit if the sail is luffing, but when powered up they should be fine. Leave just enough slack to the stopper knot so that when the sail is up there's not a lot of free line to hang down, and it will be easy to make some velcro straps to keep the line alongside the boom since you're loosefooted.
12-05-2007 10:51 PM
Classic30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_H View Post
Unless there is an eye for the bitter end on one side of the boom and the cheekblock on the other, the problem with cheek blocks is that it tries to twist the boom when you reef and so puts a lot of strain on the gooseneck or else rotates the boom so the load is taken off axis.
Jeff, thanks for the warning.

I'm going to try to mount the cheekblocks as high as I can on the boom to keep the tail as close to the sail as possible. The main is now loose-footed (it's great - I don't know why I waited so long!) so I tie the line around the boom with a bowline.
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