|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|12-17-2007 06:43 PM|
|sailboy21||For emergency repair, don't forget several of the mentioned companies offer extended studs, or even splice connections. ccriders, same impression about stalock. The way the fitting ends up crushing the wire around the cone, could be very hard to get apart. Also, when gooped up with sealant as recommended, they do seem to hold water resulting in corrosion. All the dockside experts condemned my rig since I did not use any sealant. Being a little concerned, I called up Hayn tech support. I highly recommend doing this, those guys know what they are talking about, and are very happy to answer your questions.|
|12-17-2007 05:02 PM|
Swagged and Mechanical fittings
I replaced my shrouds and stays as you intend with swagged on top and mechanical on bottom. Chose that route initially to avoid corrosion in lower fittings, but appreciated the cost savings by reducing the number of mechanical fittings. I used sta-lok, but am disappointed with surface corrosion after just a few months. They are very simple to assemble but a bear to take apart, probably not possible in an emergency situation. If I were going cruising I would carry a couple of fittings for each size wire on the boat (three in my case). that is expensive but I wouldn't count on being able to take one apart quickly.
|12-16-2007 12:36 PM|
|IslandRaider||I to am planning to re-rig this coming spring as the current rig is 18+ years, I currently have wire every where except the aft stay which is rod, the plan is to use mechanical at least on the bottom, an i am going to maintain a rod aft stay, as i will be doing some recreational racing. was not familiar with the hi mod fittings but sound like they bear some investagating. thanks to all for the input|
|12-16-2007 12:15 PM|
I'd go with Hayn Hi-mods, as they are the easiest to install and maintain IMHO.
Properly done, rod rigging is very long lasting and very durable... but the key to that is if it is properly done. If the cold-formed heads aren't done right, they will fail catastrophically with little or no warning...
You could go with swaged fittings, but IMHO, mechanical fittings are more reliable, since a bad swage is hard to determine visually and they're more prone to corrosion problems as well.
Personally, if you're planning on cruising long-term, I think that mechanical fittings and wire rigging is the best way to go... carrying spare rod rigging is difficult at best, and fitting wire to the rod terminal points is often very difficult. Mechanical fittings allow you to easily do repairs and carry spares.
|12-16-2007 09:48 AM|
I just re-rigged this past spring and chose swages at the top and Norseman's at the bottom.
Honestly you'd have to be a complete blundering idiot who can't read to screw up installation of any of the brands. I have yet to hear of a mechanical fitting failure and I know many boaters who use them. Perhaps your yard just wants the business of swaging??
In the past I've used Sta-Loc and they too are a great product but Sta-Loc's prices went through the roof this year so much so that my rigger dropped the line. I don't know much about the Hayn Hi-Mods but Hayn is a very well respected company.
I will never use a swage at the bottom again...
|12-16-2007 08:52 AM|
|camaraderie||Ditto on mechanical. We have stay-locks...but I think any of the 3 are fine. For a cruising boat, the ability to make jury rig solutions underway was my main reason for using mechanical fittings.|
|12-16-2007 04:51 AM|
|Sapperwhite||I re-rigged my entire boat top to bottom with Hi-Mod fittings, and I can say it was pretty easy going. The crown inside the fitting that accepts the wire strands works great and makes it easy. You would have to try hard if you wanted to botch the procedure. Just remember to measure 5 times, cut once (Okay, so I'm a little OCD). I know alot of cruisers that swear by Norseman just because replacements can be found almost everywhere in the world, which might not be so easy with Hi-Mod. If that isn't a concern, I highly endorse the Hi-Mod fittings just because they are so damn easy.|
|12-16-2007 02:16 AM|
I have Sta-Loks, but should I need to re-rig, I am hearing good things about the Hayn Hi-mods as well.
As for the rod rigging, 27 years, especially in salt, is old. Rod-rigged race boats here on Lake Ontario have seen failures at the 12-15 year mark, and realistically our season is only six months long. I think that if you are going to do this, do it right. You should consider replacing your halyards at the same time and that might mean replacing your sheaves. The good news is that the mast is usually OK, but old spreaders, tangs and similar fittings need a close look.
|12-16-2007 02:13 AM|
Originally Posted by RXBOT View Post
I would be wary of sealing fittings; sealed ss is liable for crevice corrosion when deprived of 02; I'm surprised the manufacturer suggests this.
I would suspect that wire rusting after 18 month exposure might not be very good quality; simple exposure shouldn't rust high quality ss.
|12-16-2007 02:03 AM|
|sailboy21||Hayn hi-mod go on FAR easier than Norseman or stalock. The retaining ring accepts the individual strands and keeps them in place while you assemble. They look better and seem to resist surface corrosion better too. I've used Stalock, Norsesman, Hayn and swage; Hayn wins hands down for ease of use and re-use. When new they look like jewelry on your boat. 2 cents.|
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