|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|12-25-2007 04:51 PM|
With a proper mooring configuration, and properly weighted top chain, your mooring chain should NEVER even come in contact with the hull. Below is a link to the proper mooring configuration. I will add however that if you're in a river a swivel at the ball and one between the top and bottom chain should be considered as opposed to just one at the ball.
Mooring Configuration: http://www.hamiltonmarine.com/0130.html
Your set up sounds awfully light for my liking but the scope is just about right. On my old Catalina 310 I ran a 500lb mushroom with 25 feet of USCG bottom chain (8 inch long links with the bar) to 35 feet of 3/4 top chain to a 1 1/4 inch swivel. Off the top of the swivel were the mooring ball and dual Yale pendants of unequal lengths. My boat has zero scratches!!!!!
Through the ball set ups, with the shackles on top, WILL scratch your hull and offer zero benefit other than being able to see the top shackle. You still need a swivel with a through the ball set up and most times it's installed under the ball where you can't see it. the swivel is the weak link in any system, other than pendants, and that is why I spend the big bucks for a HUGE one....
|12-25-2007 12:27 AM|
Can you rig a pole or board as a temporary bowsprit/stand-off? My small boat has a permanent bowsprit that works very well to keep the buoy away from the hull. I clip a short length of heavy duty shock cord from the top of the buoy to an eye bolt at the end of the sprit. The shock cord is short enough to hold the buoy away from the hull but stretches when the wind picks up so that the regular mooring lines take the strain.
|12-17-2007 10:52 PM|
I tried something like that one night on a state park buoy. I ran my mooring line through a small whisker pole type arrangement to act as a standoff. At oh-dark-thirty in the morning, the dreaded thump-thump-thump began when the tide went slack. When I got up to see what was going on, I found that the buoy was banging the hull further back instead of at the bow because of the standoff.
The thing that has worked best for us for an occasional overnighter on a buoy is to tie up our inflatable dinghy snuggly, bow to bow with the mooring buoy captured between the two inflatable transom tubes. That doesn't help the original poster though.
|12-17-2007 10:33 PM|
|sailingdog||One solution I've seen for a mooring ball in this particular situation is putting the mooring pennant, preferably chain, through a piece of 2" PVC pipe that's about 10' long... this pipe acts as a stand off for the boat, and keeps the buoy and chain at least 10' from the boat.|
|12-17-2007 09:02 PM|
|erps||The local sailing magazine had an article on some home remedies for a banging mooring buoy. One sailor dropped one of those orange highway cones down the mooring line. Another sailor carried an inner tube with him and put that over/around the mooring buoy. Both are cheap and easy fixes to try.|
|12-17-2007 08:44 PM|
Our you could just add one of these thingy's
|12-17-2007 08:44 PM|
Add another mooring (smaller) that you could attach a stern line to. Then you could center the boat between the two moorings with clearance at both ends.
|12-17-2007 08:38 PM|
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
|12-17-2007 01:57 PM|
Originally Posted by soulesailor View Post
which should hold it in a more verticle position. Also, boats tend to tether better from a bow eye than from on-deck fittings.
|12-17-2007 01:13 PM|
|sailingdog||Another possible solution is to add a "scuff plate" to the bow. This would be a thin sheet of stainless that would be bent over the bow and designed to take the abuse that the hull is currently absorbing. You could paint it with antifouling to prevent it from getting too nasty...|
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