|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-01-2008 12:08 PM|
|thekeip||Vinegar and elbow grease.|
|01-01-2008 09:14 AM|
|sailingdog||A wire brush.|
|01-01-2008 08:43 AM|
What is a good cleaner for green or corroded connectors?
|01-01-2008 12:34 AM|
A visual inspection of the pins and socket will generally tell you if corrosion is the issue. I don't believe that's your problem—since it works intermittently, without your wiggling the wires.
It could be internal corrosion or a bad IC chip. My bet is that there was a flaky chip that had a thermal fault and as you used it, the heat from use caused it to become progressively worse, until it has basically failed completely.
|01-01-2008 12:11 AM|
I may be confused.
Originally Posted by costaricanwannabe View Post
I would try some of what already mentioned, first being a borrowed Transducer if possible.
Also, check the "Pins" at the plug, are they nice and clean or green/dull? Then they need cleaned.
Another may be lose connection. Even, if, you wiggled things around. Depending how often we unplug and vibration (Coupled with other factors) the "Pin Holes (Not Pins)" may become lose and need tightened up some. I not say what you do, I have used a pair of Needle-nose Pliers and I have used something sharp like the end of a Test Light. But, I not there to see and not want to say you need to start squeezing on something with pliers when I not see what we doing.
Also, look at the pins! Are they split so you can slide a Feeler Gauge or something thin into them to sread out a little?
|12-31-2007 11:46 PM|
If your boat is in the water with an external transducer, you're SOL. Your only realistic recourse is to temporarily connect a transducer with a similar instrument connector and drop it over the side.
If it's a shoot thru, check for oil or alcohol in the transducer well (whichever) and be sure the face of the transducer is "wet"..no bubbles. Top off if necessary. You may still need to swap transducers, as above.
I'm beginning to think you've a bum transducer...maybe it was a victim of a wayward travellift strap.
All (almost all) transducers are made by one manufacturer...Airmar. They are ceramic or sometimes crystaline, but hardly ever magnetostrictive anymore and so cannot be checked with an ohmeter.
What you can do however, if you're so inclined and have a lot of time on your hands and can get to your transducer, is to connect the transducer connector to the input of a small audio amplifier and headphone of the sort sold by Radio Shack. If your transducer is good, you'll be able to hear it in the phones or speaker if you tap it. This is vaguely related to the sort of microphone used in hydrophones. I should say that this doesn't really test the functionality of the instrument..
|12-31-2007 10:34 PM|
The transducer is in general as a loud-speaker, coil and membrane.
OHM test and check for open/short circuit. Depending on Your test multimeter, You may even test the output from the instrument.
|12-31-2007 10:25 PM|
trying new transducer
I tried wiggling the wire, all the way from the transducer back to the engine compartment, where it gets difficult to trace. My wife thought at least one time that the wiggling helped, when it was in the intermittent phase, but I couldn't replicate the "fix" again. This may be a dumb question, but is there any way of trying a new transducer without pulling the boat out of the water?
|12-31-2007 10:25 PM|
Is your boat in or out?
Is your transducer external (thru-hull) or shoot thru?
|12-31-2007 09:16 PM|
most likely a connection problem or something in the circuits like a cold solder joint or a faulty component. the depth sounder is a high power circuit and a failure of something internal not unlikely.
fortunately basic depth sounders are pretty inexpensive.
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