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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-11-2008 09:29 AM
Drill a Test Hole?

Now why didn't I think of that? I wonder how many times i have seen an article or book that has recomended drilling a hole to see what's going on...must be in the dozens, hundreds, who knows. Great idea and I will do it, but I think I will wait until #1 I get the deck work further along, and #2 warmer weather.
Again, thanks for the obvious way to answer my question!
01-11-2008 08:04 AM
Maine Sail
The easiest way to tell

The easiest way to tell if you have a wood core is to drill into it with a small pilot hole. Most owners of boats are 100% clueless to this "dirty little secret" about their boats so asking other owners most likely won't get you anywhere.

Catalina offers it's customers detailed instructions on how to do this very involved repair yet perhaps only 4% of pre-1987 Catalina owners realize they have wood in their keel stub/sump. Most owners ask about fixing the keel" smile" never knowing anything about the underlying cause in most cases.

It's very rare to see post 1988 Catalina's with the "smile" unless they hit something. Catalina did NOT change this layup procedure to save money they did it to correct a problem. As these 70's & 80's boats age I suspect this problem will continually get worse...

After you drill a test hole make sure you fill it with epoxy so no more water gets into the keel stub...
01-10-2008 11:32 PM
SailingRandy alaska67, Are You Trying to Scare Me?

I have gone back to the Paceship websight to see if anyone knows if there is plywood in there. If so, then we're looking at a different way to handle this project.
BTW, Thanks for the valuable lead!
01-10-2008 01:13 PM
See this thread

take a look at this thread currently going on over in "sailboat design and construction"

it may be the same thing going on with your own keel.
01-10-2008 11:25 AM
Idiens You have to build a frame to support the keel in its upright position before lifting the boat off. Usually, it's very difficult to get the hull to come off, it's stuck on by habit.
01-10-2008 10:20 AM
mikehoyt Randy

Funny - I have a brother Randy who used to own a PY 26 - small world.

Depending on the length of the keel bolts you may get away with what I did on my Niagara 26 (OK not my boat anymore but still...)

I also had seepage into the bilge around the keel bolts and decided to rebed the keel. I backed off all nuts about 2-3 inches as I had that much extra bolt in the bilge. Then I lifted the hull up just about the same abount. This kept the keel in line but seperated from boat enough to clean the joint. Then I used a lot of 3M 5200 and lowered the boat and then tourqued the nuts. Never leaked since.

Some might argue that 5200 will be overkill as you cannot remove the keel in future. However in my case I wanted the keel to stay in place.

01-10-2008 07:18 AM
SailingRandy Thanks for the replies-although it was what I was hoping not to hear!
The bilge is filled with antifreeze so I can't tell if any water came in.
The boat sits on a trailer about 20 yards from a shop on my friend's place. I have strung electricity out there and built a shed around the boat. My question is "How do I support the keel as I crank up the supports to lift the boat?" I think moving the keel is out of the question, but it may be that I just haven't thought of how to do it.
Anybody with more ideas? Anybody done this before?
01-10-2008 06:33 AM
Rockter Salt it up in the meantime.
You don't want it freezing and thawing.
01-09-2008 09:35 AM
sailingdog I think you will probably be better off removing the keel and then resealing it completely. The formation of ice has probably damaged the area to some degree, so dropping the keel and checking for damage would the minimum you should be doing. Might as well bite the bullet and inspect all the keelbolts, as well as the keel and the bilge keel box. Then you can clean it all up, replace any bolts that look questionable, and seal it back up and know it is in good shape rather than worrying about it.
01-09-2008 09:04 AM
Idiens Yes painful. I fear the proper thing to do is lift the boat off the keel and tidy it all up.

You donīt mention if the keel is actually leaking around the keel bolts, although the water coming back out suggests it might be. The forces on the hull-keel joint are massive, so sealing it all up and holding it water tight is always difficult. Especially at the fore and aft ends where flexible hull meets inflexible keel.

You will need a stronger sealant than Sikaflex.

I read in some magazines that one is supposed to pull a different keel bolt each year to inspect and if needed replace. I had enough difficulties undoing the nuts on the studs, let alone remove the studs from the keel - I think they were cast into the lead in my boats case.
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