|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-29-2008 02:10 AM|
If you do enough prep work, even a DIY paint job can come out pretty nice.
|01-27-2008 01:14 PM|
You need more then just a filter, you need a respirator, Otherwise you will glue your lungs together when spraying 2 part lpu.
|01-27-2008 08:30 AM|
US27 great post on painting . thats the ticket , its all in the preparation . If people pay attention to your instructions then we will see a great improvement in DIY boat painting
All the best
|01-27-2008 08:11 AM|
I have worked in the "painting" end of manufacturing for 32 years so I have a little experience.
2K paints(isocyanate) are nasty things.
I am not going to make a "blanket recomendation" for your protection needs because a lot of people will ignore it any way. Just sufice it to say this is nasty stuff and there are long term effects from exposure and it CAN KILL you right away.
Ask the supplier for a MSDS ( material safety data sheet ) before you purchase the product. You can also usually find it on on a manufacturers web site. READ IT CAREFULLY!!!!!!!!! Decide if you really want to mess with it. Follow the PPE recomendations to the letter. If they say Supplied Air Respirator or Supplied Air Hood it is for a reason. This is one of the few times the Government is your friend. The manufacturer is required to provide this info to you. 10 minutes of reading is worth it.
2K paints are wonderfull things but the finished product is hard as a rock and almost impossible to sand. So unless you are a really good sprayer or have a lot of time on your hands for sanding, find someone who knows what they are doing.
With any painting that requires a respirator the "large beak" is a fit problem. So is any facial hair. To get a proper fit you need to shave it clean. At the least you will probably scare the neighbors and you wife will want to know who you are if she is used to seeing the mustache and beard.
Enough preaching. Sorry Rev.Mike. Just want everyone to be safe.
|01-27-2008 07:43 AM|
|sailingdog||BTW, if you're planning on spraying a two-part LPU, you'd better have an enclosed facility to do it in... since you're be responsible for any problems the spraying causes to people nearby. Spraying a isocyanate-based paint without a enclosed building is a really bad idea.|
|01-27-2008 03:57 AM|
|artbyjody||Also note - some boatyards will not allow you to do it yourself unless you do it in one of their set-ups and have some kind of certification (or hire one of their guys as a consultant)....follow-up on US Pirates suggestion...|
|01-27-2008 01:50 AM|
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
If your mask has a leak anywhere around the skirt (I have a big beak and it's a problem) you'll feel it in your lungs almost immediately. STOP - and fix the problem. If you have to walk away from a partially painted boat, oh well. Sanding and starting over beats long term health problems hands down.
|01-27-2008 01:13 AM|
|sailingdog||Just remember if you're spraying a two-part LPU paint, you're spraying cyanide-based chemicals... and you best have the proper respiratory protection gear or you could end up DEAD.|
|01-27-2008 12:53 AM|
I painted my deck last spring and it came out fantastic. I really could not be any happier with the result.
As with any paint job, it's all in the prep. I used all Interlux products, even the solvents. I didn't want to tempt fate with some very expensive paint. If you have the option of spraying the paint, I would highly recommend it. You'll have some extra precautions that are an absolute must but I think worth it.
Remove all hardware. Easier to remove it than to remove cured paint later. Besides, you'll get a better paint job for it. Scrub the entire deck with Solvent Wash 202. You'll be amazed at the amount of crap this stuff will pull out of the deck. Work in sections, scrub with 202 and bronze wool (NOT STEEL WOOL) then wipe down with a paper towel. When finished, start over and do it again. WEAR A RESPIRATOR (not a dust mask either) this stuff will kill you. Do not get 202 on your windows.
Grind out and fill any cracks or crazing, unwanted screw holes etc. Use an epoxy resin / filler made for this purpose. Sand smooth with a sanding block wherever possible. Using your hand for sanding leaves finger shaped grooves that will show up later. Wipe down repaired areas with 202.
Tape off the rub rail, mask the topsides with plastic, tape off any hardware that you could not remove for any reason. Tape is incredibly important. Perfection and other 2 part paints go on water thin and will crawl under Home Depot grade tapes. Even if you buy 3M tape, it's not the same adhesive at the hardware store as it is at the auto paint store. And yes, tape at the auto paint store is expensive, like 12 or 13 bucks a roll, and worth every penny. Make sure you press the edges down tight, preferably with a hard rubber roller.
I went to a medical supplier to buy some shoe covers. They worked great for keeping dirt foot prints from finding thier way to the deck. If you are spraying 2 part paint, buy a new respirator. Even if you already have one, as they get old the rubber gets stiff and may not seal properly. A new respirator is about 40 bucks, and your life is worth more than that. I used an HVLP gun to spray the paint, bought at Cummins tools for $29. When I sprayed the last coat, I just tossed it in the trash.
Use the right primer. If painting with a 2 part paint, use the primer made specifically for that paint.
If rolling the primer, use the paint makers instructions for mixing and thinning. If spraying, you'll have to thin the paint to get a proper spray pattern. Apply a second coat of primer as soon as the first is not tacky. If the paint doesn't cure, you won't have to sand between coats.
Mix up the paint for the areas of the deck that are not textured. Be sure to add flattening agent to the paint to keep the glare down. No need to tape off anything, just paint. You don't need to paint the non skid areas, but you don't have to worry about it if you do. 2 coats just like the primer.
This is the fun part. I used 1/4 inch 3m blue striping tape to tape around the non skid areas. It's a bit of a trick to stretch the tape around the corners to get a smooth radius, but it's easy to get the hang of. Be careful not to stretch the tape too much as it will pull away later when you don't want it to. The tape should not be under tension. Using good quality masking tape, back tape all of the areas you don't want non skid on. Plan on 15 to 20 hours to get the non skid taped off and ready to paint. Good knee pads are your friend. Maybe some aleeve for you back.
I used Interlux Intergrip non skid addative for my deck. Sand would have been cheaper to be sure, but sand doesn't stay suspended in the paint nor would it pass through my paint gun reliably.
I mixed the paint and flattening agent just like paint sprayed earlier, then I mixed in the Intergrip. I exceeded the recommended dosage. 6 heaping plastic spoonfuls per quart of mixed paint rings a bell, but I can't be sure. Just be sure to count spoonfuls so that subsequent mixes are the same. Let the mix stand for 20 minutes or so and mix again. If you don't let the intergrip soak, it won't stay suspended properly. Spray 2 coats as before.
As soon as the paint is tack free, pull the tape. Don't wait too long or the tape will be hard to remove. Bolt on hardware and enjoy your new paint.
|01-26-2008 09:18 PM|
Originally Posted by Jeff_H View Post
My boat's decks had been painted previously, but they did not remove any of the hardware. I had major repairs to do, and it all needed re-bedding anyway, so I stripped it ALL off before painting. But that really makes it a major project.
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