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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Fresh water pump question
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Thread: Fresh water pump question Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-31-2008 05:59 PM
billyruffn Xort,

I also have a short piece of clear tube between the fresh water pump and the pvc quick connect water pipe that runs throughout the boat. I have done as you suggested and wrapped the 18" length with black duck tape to keep the light out. I have a strainer between the tanks and the pump that has a clear plastic cover. I find that this lets me see what's going on with the water -- when the fine mesh strainer gets full of goo, it's time to flush the tanks. When it starts getting clogged with bits of rust and paint chips, it's time to get out the chipping hammer, and sand paper and paint the inside of the steel tanks.
01-30-2008 08:56 AM
xort
Quote:
Originally Posted by billyruffn View Post
One of the problems with clear water tube is that light lets algae grow in the tube, which is not good for the 'flavor' of the water.
So either keep this in a dark place or cover it with a dark cover of some sort that can be removed for checking. I appreciated the clear tubing to see that I did have flow, etc. Talking about a short piece into the pump, not the whole system. The rest of the system was white tube.
01-30-2008 08:46 AM
billyruffn
Quote:
Originally Posted by artbyjody View Post
One thing to note: Do not use copper or other rigid (pvc etc) to connect... use the clear tubing as they absorb more of the impact and will not strain as much under pressure (and its cheaper too)....clear is great because you can determine by looking when the tubing is failing or if the water is getting too dirty etc...

One of the problems with clear water tube is that light lets algae grow in the tube, which is not good for the 'flavor' of the water.
01-28-2008 07:23 PM
sailingdog You really want to make sure that you've got a small accumulator tank in the system, since that will do far more to reducing the pump short-cycling. The larger the accumulator tank, the more even the water pressure will be and the more able the system will be to handle high-demand loads.
01-28-2008 05:45 PM
lharmon For someone like Christyleigh who had too much pressure, you can get pressure regulators to lower the system pressure before any devices such as the hot water tank. In this case I would put the accumulator tank (thanks JohnRPollard) after the pump but before the pressure regulator maintaining a reserve of higher pressure water. These are passive spring loaded devices.

I thought I would mention it because it could save somebody else from buying a new pump. I paid about $30 for one at a supply house not too long ago.
01-28-2008 05:30 PM
artbyjody One thing to note: Do not use copper or other rigid (pvc etc) to connect... use the clear tubing as they absorb more of the impact and will not strain as much under pressure (and its cheaper too)....clear is great because you can determine by looking when the tubing is failing or if the water is getting too dirty etc...
01-28-2008 05:30 PM
billyruffn You might want to look into using a variable speed pump that operates with a pressure sensor to control pump output based on how much water is being demanded (Jabsco and Shurflo make them). They're a bit more expensive (about $75-100 more) but they eliminate the need for the accumulator tank. You do have to be careful of water consumption, however, as they can operate at fairly high pressures. I installed one several years ago when I got a water filter/purifier (Sea Gull IV) that required more pressure than the old PAR (with an accumulator tank) would put out. I've had both Shurflo and Jabsco pumps on the boat -- the Shurflo Smart Sensor was replaced twice (on warranty) and I now have a Jabsco that works well. One disadvantage (aside from price) is that they are fairly quiet -- if you spring a leak somewhere, as we did once, you can end up with a bilge full of fresh water pretty quickly. Shurflo has a modification you can install that will light an LED when the pump is operating.
01-28-2008 05:25 PM
poopdeckpappy Thanks again Sapper
01-28-2008 05:08 PM
Sapperwhite
Quote:
Originally Posted by poopdeckpappy View Post
One last question, What would be the advantage of a 2 gal over a 1 liter Acc. tank of better yet why would I need or want a 2 gal acc tank
A larger accumulator has more capacity to keep pressure on the system, it will keep the fresh water pump cycles down. However, to pump the system back up to normal pressure the pump may run a little longer when it does come on. If you get a bigger accumulator you may just need that bigger pump after all if you don't want the pump running for a whole minute just to get the system back up to pressure.

You may prefer stainless to plastic accumulator (or the other way around). Space to install a larger tank may be a consideration too. Cost considerations come with quality and material (as always). There are a few manufactures out there also: shurflo, jabsco, grocco, and a few others.

My system is small and simple, I only need a small accumulator, a small pump, and a small water heater. If you have an elaborate system or maybe a few people using it at the same time (washing dishes while you shower), you may need bigger components.
01-28-2008 04:22 PM
Sapperwhite
Quote:
Originally Posted by poopdeckpappy View Post
This is great stuff, thanks for the replies and leads on accumulator tanks, it isn't as simple as I thought.....
I think it's more simple than you thought. An accumulator tank costs under $50. It takes about 15 min., a sharp blade, a few hose clamps, and the right place to mount. The accumulator draws no power, and it's (cough cough) "maint. free".

Buying a bigger pump would have been harder and costlier.

Here is a pic I found of typical install diagram

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