SailNet Community - Reply to Topic
Thread: Bottom Job / Barrier Coat Reply to Thread
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Click here to view the posting rules you are bound to when clicking the
'Submit Reply' button below

  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-02-2003 07:40 PM
Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

A couple of the messages in this thread mentioned blasting with food grade bicarbonate of soda. Any ideas on where to get this stuff? I can get big boxes of baking soda at Costco, but the way the post describe the food grade stuff, it sounds like the granules are different.

"One Step Closer"
Lake St. Clair, MI
03-30-2003 08:38 PM
Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

Thanks guys.

Walt Ward
03-26-2003 05:40 PM
Maine Sail
Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

Done the barrier coat thing. Sanded the entire bottom wih a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with 7 inch metal oxide sanding discs I purchased from Home Depot in 36 grit and 50 grit. This is a very messy way to do it but it works well once you get the hang of it (be very very careful or youl be doing more fairing than it''s worth). As for the barrier coat I ALWAYS use 3M fine line film tape for the waterline and for varnish work. This is the light green stuff it''s expensive but if you want a fine line with no bleed through this is the way to go. You MUST peel the tape off before each coat of barrier epoxy sets up or it WILL take chunks off with it. Good luck!

-Rodd C.
03-26-2003 02:15 PM
Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

Try the is very new and, to me, is better than the blue. It came highly recommended.
03-26-2003 10:46 AM
Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

Always use blue tape for bottom job and repainting bootstripe. Used it when doing epoxy barrier coat also. It was on for five days and came off without problems.

I retaped after the barrier coat for the bottom paint. I put the tape right at the top of, but over, the barrier coat. This left a nice 3/4" highlight between the black bottom paint and the black bootstripe.
03-26-2003 02:49 AM
Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

I put on all the coats at one time, then peeled off the tape before it hardened. I think once it cures, the tape edge will be effectively "epoxied" to the hull.
03-25-2003 05:28 PM
Bottom Job / Barrier Coat


Bottom paint job, no problem. I have done that a lot of times. I have been using Ace Blue Tape. I have not seen the purple as yet.

My question is, when rolling on 5 or 6 coats of barrier epoxy. Just thinking that with all but the last coat set up tight it might be a real bugger to get the tape off. On the other hand I do not look forward to tapeing the water line five or six times, once is not a lot of fun. Just wondered what the other guys have experienced.

Thanks for your thoughts
Walt Ward
03-25-2003 06:32 AM
Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

I just finished painting the bottom of my boat. I purchased a new tape that Ace Hardware has''s purple and is supposed to be okay if left on for up to 14 days. I left it on for 2 days with absolutely NO left no residue and came up with no problem.
03-25-2003 05:42 AM
Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

does anyone know of someone who offers this soda blasting service in RI?
03-24-2003 09:07 AM
Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

Take a look at
Put your cursor on the picture of the old Whaler called "WRECKLESS" and you''ll see what kind of job soda blasting does. Sand AIN''T NEVAH the way to go. My daughter started setting up the website and it''s a work in progress. We haven''t even formally started up the business yet. I stripped 22 years of bottom paint(s), hit the topsides, knocked rust off the transom and decks, cleaned the rust off all the hardware and rails, etc. in less than a day the first time I used the machine. I got heavy rust stains out of nonskid so it looks new. I figure a 40'' fin keel boat for a day''s work. You get your strippers, methelyne chloride poisons, grinders, sanders, scrapers and blades and let''s race - and see who puts more **** into the air. I''ve got a trickle of water going through the unit that keeps the dust down and all old paint drops straight down - for recovery onto a tarp, if you like. My blast media is food grade bicarb of soda - same thing that you put in the fridge, but processed to flow like sugar. When you''re done, you "gas off" the surface and any that hits the ground with citric acid solution (made from orange peels), it bubbles, releases CO2, and goes to neutral vs. the quite basic bicarb powder. You CAN blow a hole through a hull if you don''t know what you''re doing, but you can also take paint off one layer at a time. It''s all in tuning the blast pressures, which, for, say, gelcoat, tend in the 50 to 55 psi range. Good thing I tried it out on a dinghy first. At 85 psi she goes right through the glass. Oh yeah, by mid day we skipped wearing the Tyvek suit. Too damn hot this far south of the Mason/Kittery line. Pretty neat. KW
This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome