|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-15-2008 09:34 PM|
Thank you !
I think I ll get her now !
|03-15-2008 09:15 AM|
You can either do terminal strips as Howard suggest. Put drip loops on the wiring before bringing them into the project box.
You can also use several polarized multi-pin connector and cable clams.
You can also use several through-deck multi-pin polarized connectors and cables.
The polarized connectors are faster when you have to step and unstep the mast. The terminal strips are easier to modify later on.
|03-15-2008 08:51 AM|
I like to use barrier terminal strips, enclosed in one of the little 'project boxes' you can get at Radio Shack, at a convenient place to get at. Use the proper crimp terminals and you've got a professional looking installation. Sooner or later, you're going to want to get to those connections.
|03-15-2008 12:08 AM|
Thanks Jody !
Never done this stuff before. Steped a mast of this size ...The links will better to get plan A on the way !
I was thinking I could pull it off with the mast up . looks like most likly not !
I belive these wires have been cut at one time also !
Its better to do the job very good the first time instead of many !
|03-14-2008 11:52 PM|
Dan: Here a few sites you can glean some tips from for this project
SJ23 Tech Tip E09 - Support Electrical Wiring Inside the Mast
Semyan.com - The Mast
Just make sure you incorporate disconnects where ever you can for when the mast is stepped later. On mine when it was stepped there were no disconnects and basically had to cut the wires to get the mast off the boat....depressing to say the least...
|03-14-2008 11:39 PM|
S-D I havent figured my lighting load yet or close to it .
That will be the easy part .
This boat has to be re wired its a cob job at the bottom of the mast .
Wire connecters ..tape ..ect .
What is the proper way from the switches up the mast .
Is the ground commonly at the bottom of the mast or run it up for a common conection on top .
I like to do my jobs just one time for the long term !
Past practist has proven that ...just havent done any work on the mast .. Thanks !
|03-14-2008 11:20 PM|
Generally, IMHO, you shouldn't have a water-tight connector at the bottom of the mast. Most masts get some water in them, via rain, halyard slots, etc. and if the bottom of the mast is water tight...how is the water supposed to get out??
As for wire gauge, it depends on how much of a load you're going to put on the wire and what distance the wire run is. I try to size the wire for a 3% voltage drop for the heaviest load I might put on the circuit, and then go up a size. Slightly oversized wire is cheap insurance against electrical circuit problems.
Originally Posted by Danny33 View Post
|03-14-2008 11:10 PM|
While were on it ..
Is it common pratice to have a water tight connecter at the bottom of the mast or a loop when the mast may be pulled for the wiring .
Im going to run it all new . so I may as well do it the proper way ...led for all above .
Talked to CG up here for lighting ..is it better to run a three and a two wire .
Anchor ..tri on top ( seperate ground) for three up top ..two for steaming and spreder lights .
I'd like to run a system ground up the mast back to batt ..grd
14 wire good or can I get by with less with led ?
|03-14-2008 10:20 PM|
But not all of those LED replacement bulbs are USCG certified for visibility, and if you get hit, it may become a problem for you. Having uncertified lights can increase your liability.
Originally Posted by l0keman View Post
|03-14-2008 09:45 PM|
|l0keman||I'll be re wiring my mas in the next couple weeks and have found that you can just get LED light bulbs to go into non-LEDS housings and convert them. I don't know if this helps you, but I know I will me.|
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