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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Dyneema eye splice
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Thread: Dyneema eye splice Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-07-2008 01:53 AM
bobmcgov
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyb116 View Post
If you have problems take it to a rigger a backstay is a terrible thing to lose at the wrong time. Did that but got lucky and didn't lose the mast.
Per class rules (tho I'm not terribly bothered by those) there will be a safety cable backing up the adjuster. Not sure how that would fare in a shock-load, mind you. It may however prevent blushes while raising the mast if yours truly forgets to attach something important.

I'm overdesigning this thing pretty seriously -- replacing 1/8" wire rope with components at least twice (and up to five times) the cable's breaking strength as SWL. Should still come in under $250: nice people at Garhauer. (Thanks SD for the referral.)
03-07-2008 12:42 AM
jimmyb116 If you have problems take it to a rigger a backstay is a terrible thing to lose at the wrong time. Did that but got lucky and didn't lose the mast.
03-04-2008 11:18 PM
bobmcgov
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyb116 View Post
I guess KeelHauling and I aren’t going to agree, and do to the fact this is not for my boat I can’t be bothered getting into it, so do what is best for you bobmcgov best of luck.
No worries, JimmyB -- this thread has actually turned into a fairly broad and disheveled forum on splicing options and methods, which is dandy. My original question was about eye-splicing 12-strand Amsteel Blue -- a hollow (coreless), single-braid line. Since the manufacturer endorses a simple splicing technique, I'll take their word on it. Tho it might be fun to pull-test an offcut w/ practice splices, just see (unscientifically) how much it can take. If it can budge the tractor, it'll do for the backstay.
03-04-2008 09:13 PM
JimsCAL I replaced my main halyard (dacron to wire) about 5 years ago with a Warpspeed one. Had the eyesplice done by Defender's rigger. Very happy with it.
03-04-2008 09:00 PM
SailorMitch Since it is my boat, I appreciate your comments, Jimmy. I've printed out the Samson, New England and Marlow directions for splicing dyneema lines. Working from the old joke that a camel is a horse designed by a committee, I fear what kind of splice I'll end up with. But seriously, I have a test piece of Warpspeed to play with and will try a couple of them to see what will work for my limited skills in this area. I do want to keep the cover on (just because), and I will lock it down with stitches. Again, thanks for your comments.
03-04-2008 07:03 PM
jimmyb116 I guess KeelHauling and I arenít going to agree, and do to the fact this is not for my boat I canít be bothered getting into it, so do what is best for you bobmcgov best of luck.
03-04-2008 05:20 PM
KeelHaulin Splicing Instructions for Samson rope is located here:

Samson

You should follow the instructions for the particular type of line you are splicing because cover (and sometimes core construction) varies between manufacturers. The reason that the Samson lines (and others) require a core-core splice is because the cover is tightly stitched and you can't bury both the cover and the core into the neck of the eye (it's too thick to pass the cover through). Since the strength of these lines is mostly in the core a core-core splice will retain 90% of the strength of the line.

In terms of difficulty; it's about the same in terms of time/effort to do a core-core VS a standard eye splice. Both type of splices are tedious and if you can't do it from memory (lots of steps) you have to read the instructions as you go. The difficulty in the core-core splice is getting the core splice to milk back into the cover; and whipping the excess cover tightly to the eye. Cutting dyneema/vectran to taper the strands is not easy either. You have to saw on it (won't cut even with the sharpest scissors); it is tough stuff!! It's easy to cut it as a solid line but cutting the individual strands is a chore. I don't think 25 bucks to have someone make eyes is unreasonable; but it's a good skill to know how to DIY also.

Stripping the cover WILL reduce the useful life of the line to a large extent. For halyards you can reduce the wear by replacing the cover at the eye so that there is a 1-2' length where the line has a cover (to prevent chafe on the masthead sheave and cut-through of the line on the shackle). If you strip the cover you should also run messengers so that the exposed section is stowed in the mast and out of the sun which (will deteriorate the exposed core). The wear/tear on halyards with stripped cover is just another "boat buck" expense for serious racers. I won't strip the covers on our halyards because we are not competetive racers. You can strip the covers on spinaker sheets so that you reduce weight of the lines pulling down on the sail in light wind (helps the sail 'fly' better).
03-04-2008 12:51 PM
jimmyb116 Warp speed is designed to have the cover striped the core is treated to be UV proof and abrasion resistant.
03-04-2008 12:45 PM
sailingdog I wouldn't strip the cover, even if it is a bit heavy. The cover acts to protect the inner core from UV damage and abrasion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyb116 View Post
I would suggest stripping the cover, as it is heavy on warp speed and not required for the halyard, just leave enough cover so that when the sail is fully hoisted the cover stops at the mast base. Also Use the splicing instructions from the Marlow site much stronger eye splice. Donít forget to lock stitch or it will creep on you.
03-04-2008 11:38 AM
jimmyb116 I would suggest stripping the cover, as it is heavy on warp speed and not required for the halyard, just leave enough cover so that when the sail is fully hoisted the cover stops at the mast base. Also Use the splicing instructions from the Marlow site much stronger eye splice. Don’t forget to lock stitch or it will creep on you.
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