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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > bleaching veneer
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Thread: bleaching veneer Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-09-2008 10:11 AM
sailingdog Unfortunately, I don't think Minwax is really the right product for the job. It isn't designed for high-humidity, high wear or UV exposure as Shortman has pointed out. I also don't think it will not be slick when wet. Ultimate Sole, which is a finish specificially designed for this use, is probably a much better bet. It is one of the few products that most sailnet users agree on...one other being the Miracle Metal Polishing Cloth.
04-09-2008 07:45 AM
Shortman
Doubt Minwax

IMHO Minwax will afford minimal protection, use a product intended for cabin soles that are subject to high humidity, high wear, UV exposure through hatches & portlights.
Bleaching will also remove teak color so test finish spots first in case you want to put some color back.
04-09-2008 12:13 AM
pigslo It appears to me from your pictures that you still have old varnish on the wood. That ends up trapping the discoloration underneath. If you strip carefully to wood, the discoloration should wipe off with 1 bleaching.
pigslo
04-08-2008 11:11 PM
lbdavis Oops. Yes, I did indeed open this thread with "cockpit" sole. It is indeed my cabin sole that I've been working on.

I don't think I'll be stripping down those 8 brand new coats for some Teka A,B, but I'll keep 'em in mind for the next job.
04-08-2008 10:44 PM
NauticalFishwife Wait a minute... are you talking cockpit? Why not use Teka A and B and lightly, very lightly sand. That takes oh so many stains out. And do you really want to put anything on it for the cockpit? You don't want to put anything on it that makes it slippery when wet! Why lose the natural grip of teak underfoot? Unless you mean the cabin sole. We did our cabin sole, veneer, teak and holly with "Professional MinWax"... you can get it at Home Depot, but you purchase it by the gallon. I tried Ultimate Sole on a small piece of cabin sole but it did not do well on my old previously oiled for years piece. And yes, I followed their directions! When you work with Teka A and B make sure you keep it wet while you work and use a 3m scrubby ... you will see an amazing difference.
04-08-2008 10:20 PM
lbdavis
finished product!

I'm done.

I gave it a weak TSP treatment and a third oxalic bleach. Then dry-sanded with a 320 grit and applied 8 thin coats of Minwax Clear Poly - lightly sanding with 320 in between each coat.



It looks a lot better than the original...



...but not quite as well as I had hoped. It is certainly a lighter tone and many of the stains didn't come out of the teak and much of the mold would not lift from the holly.



All in all, I'll take it. Thanks for everyone's help.

Cheers,
LB
03-30-2008 09:02 PM
lbdavis
not quite

Ok. Here is my cabin sole after I stripped it down:



And here it is after two oxalic bleachings:



The teak has gotten A LOT better, but the holly is still quite dark. Will I screw this veneer if I do a shot of TSP then more oxalic acid?
03-29-2008 12:06 AM
artbyjody
Quote:
Originally Posted by camaraderie View Post
Ever poured water on a gym floor?
If you want the LOOK but don't want to go flying on your butt...suggest you look into Ultimate Sole.
I look at sole.. nothing ultimate...when asked the difference of soul versus sole...I said depreciation of a "U".. I got shot ...

boat purchases now full of soul... or ballasted with lead..

I have lots of lead now...

G thanks...
03-29-2008 12:01 AM
camaraderie Ever poured water on a gym floor?
If you want the LOOK but don't want to go flying on your butt...suggest you look into Ultimate Sole.
Online Store
03-28-2008 08:40 PM
lbdavis
squeak

Quote:
Originally Posted by GBurton View Post
Gym seal works well too
I was hoping to get that squeaking sound from under my foot when i change direction.
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