|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-12-2006 04:56 AM|
|neilchristophers||O.K so it takes a long time to get messages 'Down Under' NZ...|
|10-11-2006 11:24 AM|
|rockDAWG||Paul, good catch|
|10-11-2006 10:06 AM|
|cardiacpaul||considering the thread started in 2003, its either started by now, or he's been working on it a really long time.|
|10-10-2006 11:38 PM|
okkkkey, we have lots of marine experts on duty here. So many solutions!
So few real details.
It wouldn't start after prolonged cranking,,,,, but was it cranking fast enough? And was it now too cold to start without glow plugs,,,, that weren't needed and haven't been working all summer? Who knows?!!!!
But I love a mystery! Don't you? The answer may help one of us in the future.
The bad battery may be the answer but I doubt it. How long has it been since it last run? Did it crank normaly or slow? Did it try to start?
|10-10-2006 10:29 PM|
|Artwerke||Also if it cranked for 15 sec. or so and everything got very hot ,almost frozen engine could put high load on starter, also high resistance ie.coroded cables can generate quite a bit of heat.Art|
|10-10-2006 09:25 AM|
|Rockter||I triy to use a dedicated starter battery, separate from the house battery. Starters are very hard on batteries..|
|10-10-2006 08:26 AM|
I concure, batteries have the ability to produce thousands of amps for a very short time. In addition I would check connections to the battery and to the starter. A loose or corroded connection can cause the voltage at the engine to be too low to effectively start and high current from the battery.
|10-10-2006 05:57 AM|
|neilchristophers||Crannking with flat battries will cause high amps to be drawn and if you were cranking for a while the cables will proberly heat up . This problem is not a fault in your alternator . Neil...|
|06-10-2003 04:21 PM|
Sounds like you may have a short in one of the cells.
Are they AGM or Gell? If not, have been monitoring the water level?
|06-10-2003 02:58 PM|
Some questions and then easier things to check first:
?1. Were the batteries at 12.6V immediately prior to cranking & fail to start?
?2. Selector was in "both" position when cranking?
?3. After removing batteries, you placed them on charge - one recharges, & other did not - have I got this right?
?4. Fuel valve was open, and decompression lever closed when cranking failed to start?
you would not be the first
INITIAL QUICK TESTS:
With battery switch off (batteries installed, but positive cable not connected), place ammeter between Battery positive (+ red meter lead) and Positive (Red) Battery Cable. Read no current - OK. Read any current, look to your starter wiring (short to ground).
Turn Battery Selector Switch to "Both", ensuring all DC Panel Breakers are Off, or Fuses removed.
Read current as above. No current - OK. Any current - look to panel feeder.
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