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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Stainless Steel...
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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-12-2008 08:59 PM
Freesail99 I use to be an owner in one of the larger Metal Polishing Companies in America. Whenever we were mirror finish stainless to be used near salt water we always used either 304L or 316L. We had better luck with those alloys.
04-11-2008 09:45 AM
sailingdog
Quote:
Originally Posted by merttan View Post
Will it be company privilege abuse if I get the metal things casted and cut in our titanium medical factory in Turkey? Nevermind for this boat, for the next one maybe
I'll see if I can get some manufacturers' production method
OR get us some gear made out of titanium too.
04-11-2008 09:36 AM
beej67
Quote:
Originally Posted by merttan View Post
Will it be company privilege abuse if I get the metal things casted and cut in our titanium medical factory in Turkey?
Not if you cut us in on the action.
04-10-2008 08:58 PM
Classic30
Quote:
Originally Posted by RAGTIMEDON View Post
For marine use, it is not the strength that matters as much as rust resistance. Plain carbon steel, even "soft" free machining steel, will make a screw that will hold parts together. But unless they are immersed in oil, rust will destroy 304 stainless in salt air. They call it stainless, but check it with a strong magnet before you buy! If a magnet has no attraction to it, it will probably last; if the magnet will pick up a screw, it probably will rust. That's a heck of a lot cheaper and more convenient than spectrographic analysis!
After reading this thread, I tried the magnet trick last night on my pile of spares and was rather horrified by the results - more than half of my fasteners were picked up, including:

- A Ronstan swivel fitting!
- Boat nails!!
- All my "stainless" spring clips, sister clips and split pins!
- A large variety of screws, nuts, bolts and washers - some bought from the local hardware store, some from who-knows-where.

Without the magnet, it didn't seem possible to tell to them apart - so I know the test was working. Some of the larger stainless bolts seemed to be weakly attracted, hanging on by the head but falling off without much force (are these an issue? don't know..) and some larger pulleys and hooks were not attracted at all.

I didn't try my stainless rivets, but by my reckoning nearly 2/3rds of the "stainless" fittings on my boat are magnetic.. but have yet to show signs of rust. A bit of a worry!!
04-09-2008 01:12 PM
pfatyol If you have some loose fastners, mix up some salt water ~ 1%, and let the fastner(s) soak in it for at least 24 hours, pull out and let air dry. If you see signs of rust. Then most likely 304 or the passive layer has been removed. Salt bath soak is routinely done on surgical instruments to find problem areas in the processing. i.e. laser marking too much power, poor quality forgings. . .
Citric acid based cleaners on SS are a good thing, Citric acid at 20% is one form of passivation solution. The cleaners have no where near the acid concentration to passivate at room temperature.

feel free to email me,

Patrick
04-09-2008 01:01 PM
merttan
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVAuspicious View Post
I think that I installed 304 on which I used cleaning solvents including but not limited to; bleach, oxyclean, citric acid based cleaners... And additionally, the rain we receive may have somewhat acidic characteristics...
I appreciate the link...
I guess, I'd better test the screws with solvents applied outdoor conditions for awhile before installing them.
04-09-2008 01:00 PM
pfatyol If your really interested in passivation, it is covered in ASTM A967. Many different methods, but if you realy like your stainless to shine send it out for electro polishing. There a good number of firms that will either passivate or electro polish parts and hardware out there. Passivation does not remove the free iron from the surface of Stainless steel.
04-09-2008 12:53 PM
merttan
Talking about medical supplies...

Will it be company privilege abuse if I get the metal things casted and cut in our titanium medical factory in Turkey? Nevermind for this boat, for the next one maybe
I'll see if I can get some manufacturers' production method information. Acid bath you say... I wonder if... No I shouldn't try it at home...
04-09-2008 12:53 PM
sailingdog BTW, 304 and 316 are both austentitic forms of marine grade stainless and non-magnetic...so the magnet test does little to tell you which it is. The cheaper, non-marine grade martenistic stainless steels are magnetic...and really should be avoided on a boat.

While 304 is a bit stronger (about 15% or so IIRC) than 316, the fact that it is far less corrosion resistant and prone to chloride ion stress cracking makes 316 a much better choice on a boat.
04-09-2008 12:52 PM
SVAuspicious Read this:

Stainless Steel Information Knowledge alloys 316 304
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