|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-03-2008 05:20 PM|
Yes, this is the wire that connects to the eye-bolt with a thimble. The turnback is the length of the bitter end of the wire measured from the end of the thimble to the end of the wire. The clips are the u-bolt/saddle clamps that connect the bitter end to the standing part. Rigging.net/clips.html has a pretty good description ( I can't include the direct link yet- not enough posts).
|06-03-2008 04:22 PM|
Originally Posted by radcat View Post
What is turnback? Are you talking about the wire you wrap around a thimble which holds a eye-bolt which fastens to the quadrant?
|06-03-2008 04:19 PM|
|radcat||Thanks for the reply. The problem is that even if I bought cables from Edson, I would have the same issue. Replacement cables from them are the same as what I currently have- 3/16" wire with a swaged thimble on one end and thimbles/clips to install on the other end. The radial end can't be made up ahead of time because the thimbles won't fit through the bottom of the pedistal. Getting the operating length correct is no problem (I measured the old ones). The question is how much space do you really need between the two clips on each wire. According to some US Navy literature I found today, 6 cable diameters between clips should be OK. I think I can make that work.|
|06-03-2008 01:16 PM|
I would think having Edson do it would be the easiest and safest way. I have seen even really good yards (Hinkley) do a crummy job on steering cables. You take the old one off, take measurements, Edson will make you a new one to fit and send it to you. Keep the current as a spare.
|06-02-2008 10:22 AM|
|radcat||I need some help understanding the application of steering wire clips. The wire on my Edson steering system is 3/16 “ SS. Most of the guidance I have seen for the installation of the wire clips calls for two wire clips with 3-3/4” turnback on the bitter end of the wire. The problem is that with this much turnback, the length of the wire is such that there are not going to be many threads available on the eye bolt to adjust for stretch in the future. I suspect the turnback requirement is a generic industry standard that allows for back and forth bending flex that this system will not see. It seems to me that two inches of turnback for this application should be acceptable. The wire was made up by a local rigger so Edson is not going to be much help. Thanks.|
|05-10-2008 10:02 PM|
|radcat||Switching those cables up would be embarrassing and potentially quite expensive. We ran messenger lines for everything and tied off port and starboard accordingly. The suggestion of unlaying one of the strands to attach the messenger worked great. Speaking of lines, as previously mentioned it is a good idea to tie off anything you can with a lanyard before working over the pedestal. While we were fitting the wiring up, I did drop the chain and the lanyard saved me a good bit of work.|
|05-10-2008 08:02 PM|
|donradclife||Don't forget to note whether and where the cables are crossed before you pull them off, or you will find to your embarrassment that the rudder moves the wrong way when you get it all back together again.|
|05-10-2008 03:07 PM|
Originally Posted by radcat View Post
You're right about not always installing things the way they came off. You should install them the way they should be.
|05-10-2008 09:22 AM|
|radcat||Thanks to the replies to this post, I am ready to install the parts. I ended up getting a rigger to make up the cables ($50 vs the $240 that Edson wanted). In my case, the cable was in good shape except for an isolated area on the starboard wire that had about half the strands broken. This did not point to a misaligned sheave since you would expect to see more generalized wear. A rigger thought that as some point, the cable became loose and jumped the sheave causing the damage. Something to remember if it ever happens. Another problem I noted was an abraded instrument wiring harness that someone had installed too close to the chain. Just like a car, one of the benefits of doing the work yourself is that you spot other problems in the process. I do have one other question. When I removed the cable, each eye bolt was secured with two nuts- one on each side of the radial housing making a secure fit. The Edson literature (not very comprehensive) indicates that both nuts should be on the same side. It seems to me that if that were the case, the eye would be free so float back and forth a bit and eventually damage the threads or, more probably, abrade the hole in the radial. Has anyone else encountered this? I remember reading somewhere that it is not always wise to reinstall parts on an old boat the way they came off. You don’t know who did the previous work.|
|05-05-2008 04:51 PM|
|Northeaster||Zoom - I just replace mine a couple weeks ago - your steering quadrant looks very similar. When I installed adjusting "take-up" eye bolts, I had to tighten the nut most of the way, only leaving an inch, or so, of threads showing (for tightening). Otherwise, my cable clamps would have been bending around the corner of the quadrant - as in your picture!|
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