|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-13-2008 09:20 AM|
Originally Posted by SVDistantStar View Post
The advantage of an accumulator is that is reduces the pump cycling. Without an accumulator, the pump will start and stop every time a faucet is open or closed. The accumulator stores a small volume of water under air pressure. The air can thus expand and the pump will only start when the accumulator pressure has dropped to the switch cut-in point. It's the constant on-off cycling that will kill a pump early.
|05-13-2008 01:02 AM|
|SVDistantStar||Well theres only 2 sinks in the boat. I think i may stick with the foot pumps. No power draw.|
|05-13-2008 12:32 AM|
|sailingdog||An accumulator will generally also allow more than one sink to be used without a huge pressure drop and may reduce the amount of time the pump runs.|
|05-13-2008 12:01 AM|
|05-12-2008 11:56 PM|
Im about to redo the whole freshwater system in my Pearson. I've got the tank under the settee cleaned out so i can use it again and ive got an 11 tank under the cockpit that is plumbed to the foot pump in the galley only. My boat is at anchor and will be staying there, so im wondering should i move to a pressure system or keep my foot pumps. So far ive only got one in the galley. I had planed to install one in the head also. For my hot water ive got one of those camping hot water heaters. It doesnt come inside the cabin, it sets on the deck right outside of the hatch over the head.
If i go with a pressure system i will use PEX for the plumbing. Unless i find a propane hot water heater that i like and can install safely i will stick to my little camping heater. I know that i will need a pump, but do i need an acumlator?
|05-12-2008 11:34 PM|
Start by checking your system everywhere. Are you sure that you have connected everything everywhere ? Did you drain the hot water heater and remove the line ? Have you reconnected it ?
Your pump has a pressure sensitive switch on it that tells it when to turn on and off. This can need adjustment occasionally.
When you are sure that everything is open or closed and attached or isolated, fill your water tank up all the way. Give the water a little time to make its way into the system. If you have any air traps or loops in the system, you may need to prime some areas.
Then turn the pump on and let it pump everything through. If everything is fine and it still won't turn off, then you need to adjust the pressure switch. They can get cruddy and stiff with age. Look for a manual online for the pump and adjust it until it is working well. The switch is usually up at the top end near the intake.
|05-12-2008 10:53 PM|
Thanks everyone for your input. Now I have something to diagnose.
BTW We have a diaphram type pump.
|05-11-2008 09:16 PM|
|erps||It takes a while to work the spurts and sputters out. If there is still a lot of air on the pressure side of the system, the pump won't shut off either. Turn on all your faucets and let the water run until the spurts and sputters quit before troubleshooting anything else. If it never quits, then I agree with minggat, air leak on the suction side.|
|05-11-2008 07:08 PM|
|minggat||The spurts and sputters indicate that you are sucking air, which means a leak in the suction side of your system, not the pressure side. I am not saying the problem is not in the pump, but you are introducing air to the system. You don't say if you have a diaphram pump or a vane pump. I can see the problem might well be in a diaphram pump. But a hole in the diaphram that can suck air would also spurt out air or water in the pressure stroke.|
|05-11-2008 06:50 PM|
|sailingdog||Either the pump is bad or you've got a leak in the accumulator tank or somewhere else in the pressure side of the system. If it hasn't pumped your fresh water tank dry, then the problem is most likely the pump and not a leak.|
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