|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-13-2008 07:12 PM|
|05-13-2008 06:59 PM|
|05-13-2008 06:46 PM|
Replacing the tank (literally cutting it out if fiberglass and putting in a poly tank complete with strapping it down) is not a option?
If you have access ports and skinny arms with double joints that's probably the best option, including popping the top, it's certainly the cheapest option. Get a 20 buck steam cleaner (late night T.V. -or make your own) while you are at it.
If ethanol use continues it will be needed sooner or later anyway. The only problem with poly tanks is no baffles, and lack of the ability to make a custom shape.
Forgive me, for I'm sure you have mentioned it, but I'm unsure what type boat you have. If you can pop the top you must have a built in fiberglass tank.
Solomons isn't quite a day trip or I'd loan you my polisher. I use a pump fitted to a plywood board with filters and connections so I can loan it out or install it in line on my system as a replacement for my first two filters (I have three) - like I recommended to Freesail and literally polish my fuel from tank to tank more often than needed, as a catamaran sailor I've been called a dubious motor boater by many. I like knowing I have a clean tank.
|05-13-2008 06:32 PM|
I'd rather not drill more holes - there are already a few to access ports in the tank. If I can't clean it up properly without opening one - I will bite the bullet and take the cover off. I did the same for my water tank with good results (can drink the water from the tank and not get sick, amazing ).
As for the vacuum - I'll check about spark protection. If not a vacuum, I can always keep pouring fuel back in the tank and pumping it with the sludge together, I suppose - or blast the tank with fuel from the hose.
My boat is in Solomons at Zahnisers marina.
|05-13-2008 06:26 PM|
Do a little research, I don't have a ignition protected vacuum I can refer to off the top of my head. My tanks are (currently) only a year old. Previously my plan was to remove the tank on my Hunter if it got seriously fouled and replace it with a 200 dollar poly tank.
Frankly, and I'm sure the safety nuts will neg rep me, I'm not sure the vacuum needs to be spark free (thats on you to check out). I'm real sure a micron mitt (scrubby on your hand) doesn't make sparks. The idea is to scrub the tank, cut a hole, reach in an get yucky cleaning the tank. Then put a inspection port on the hole because obviously you need one.
Where are you out of ?
|05-13-2008 06:12 PM|
Originally Posted by Freesail99 View Post
|05-13-2008 06:11 PM|
|05-13-2008 06:10 PM|
|05-13-2008 06:08 PM|
Those pumps (freesail's post) are intended for diesel, it's the entire reason they are built - they are not gasoline pumps converted.
If you want a cheap way of cleaning/polishing fuel - look for filters truckers use, I've seen some that essentially use a roll of paper towels to prefilter and a 80micron as the next step. You can build a polisher far far cheaper than a single visit from a service will charge, and properly used you can run a polisher continuously for years.
That will not clean sludge, there is no better way than pumping fuel from one tank to the next, reaching in and vacuuming sludge out.
I have polypropelene (sp) tanks. I can buy a new tank for 1/4 the price of a service cleaning my tanks. Think it out before you sign a contract.
|05-13-2008 06:06 PM|
Ok, found a slightly cheaper pump - Tuthill Diesel Fuel Transfer Pump 12 Volt, 10 GPM, Model# FR1612 | DC Powered Pumps | Northern Tool + Equipment
As a bonus, seems more powerful and has bigger outlets. Cool.
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|