|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-27-2008 04:45 PM|
He tested it, it didn't work and the boat sank with all hands aboard...
|05-27-2008 04:43 PM|
|max-on||Joel, any update?|
|05-26-2008 01:51 AM|
DO NOT SOLDER CONNECTIONS ON A BOAT.
ABYC specification is for CRIMPED connections on a boat. It is far easier to make proper crimp connections, provided you have a good ratcheting crimping tool, than it is to properly solder a connection. Soldering also cause the marine grade wire to effectively turn into solid wire at the soldered joins, and creates a place where vibration will easily work harden and fatigue the wiring. It also can introduce a high-resistance spot in the case of a cold solder join, as well as galvanic corrosion issues, due to dissimilar metals being in close proximity.
The best connections are crimped with adhesive lined heatshrink tubing (or the heat shrink type crimp terminals) to seal the crimp from moisture.
|05-26-2008 01:07 AM|
|negrini||Max, going a little back, remember to size correctly your cables (based on the pump you choose), fuse it appropriatedely directly to the Batts, making soldering connections and good waterproofing. As saildog says, incorrect powering would also bring down your GPM capacity as well. In 2006 I replaced my floating switches by the electronic model. Well, now I'm back to the basic floating one, as those proved to be too sensitive and not reliable at all.|
|05-26-2008 12:51 AM|
Thanks SD, so if I go directly to the battery and not the breaker as current, then get the switch like Joel and not the one I posted, unless I then add a fuse to the connection, which Joel's switch does automatically without the extra step. Thanks.
Yeah, I also would like to see how he did that drain line setup!
|05-26-2008 12:46 AM|
Well, having the fuse is a good idea, since the bilge pump switch is wired directly to the battery, rather than going through the DC panel if Joel did this right. There's no evidence to support this...
Switch is a good idea... not sure about the "T" into the drain line, since I've not seen the specifications on the other bilge pump or seen the layout of the through-hull it is attached to or the plumbing connecting everything.
|05-25-2008 10:13 PM|
|max-on||SD, any comments on the switch, fuse/no fuse, and 'T' into the drain line?|
|05-25-2008 12:14 AM|
|max-on||Joel, thanks for the reply and yes post some pics, I would like to see your setup and 'T' in the drain line. I am thinking it would be just as easy to keep the current pump wired to the breaker and install another pump connected to the battery with the sensor and the three-way switch. Should I get the switch with the fuse? What are the pros/cons of fuse/no fuse switch.|
|05-24-2008 12:09 PM|
Looks like you're getting good info here. I will be posting photos of my bilge installation soon so maybe that will be of interest to you. As for the parts i used... we put in a Rule #41 3way panel switch with indicator light and built in fuse....
Also used a Rule 500GPH like this:
I would have put a larger pump in but we already had that one at the house for some reason so i decided that since it was paid for that i would get some use out of it. In the future i will probably upgrade to atleast the 750 if not the 1000.
For the plumbing.... i DID NOT want to add another through-hull so i just used a T connection into my manual line after the manual pump... Seems to work fine and back flow is not possible the way we installed it.
Anyway... i'll post about it soon.
|05-24-2008 10:41 AM|
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