|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-09-2008 08:10 PM|
|fullkeel7||Brilliant, thanks for the update...glad to see your project had a successful result.|
|07-09-2008 07:53 PM|
Installation of Schaefer SnapFurl CF-700
It's a bit overdue but I thought I'd share with everyone how the installation went. Overall it was pretty simple. Surprisingly there was no reason to go up the mast at all. Measuring was double then triple checked and at last the cuts were made.
The most difficult part of the install was due to the plastic foils that go over the forestay. They come rolled up and are a major pain in the butt to first "straighten" out and then trying to get an accurate measurement along a piece of twisted and moving plastic... ugh! Taping the measuring tape ever few fight helped quite a bit before the final cut.
Installing the plastic foils around the forestay was also challenging from a physical effort, not a technical one
Overall I'd say if you can follow printed instructions and take your time it is a fairly straight forward exercise. I've been very happy with the performance of the furler (it's been installed for a month or so now) and would recommend it.
|06-13-2008 10:28 PM|
I am not familar with this furler. However,it may be helpful to run a messenger line inside the "luff-tube" (probally not the right technical name) to attach to and guide the headstay, espically if the headstay isn't changed -remains attached to the mast.
When I installed my furler I tied a large knot in the end of a string. The knot was small enough to fit inside the RF and the string more than long enough to trave the length. With a friends help, I feed the string into the luff-tube while he used a vacuum to suck from the other end. After the string was drawn thru I attached the largest (strongest) line I had that would fit insid the luff -tube then tied off the to the head stay at the tack. We then used the messenger to help pull/guide the headstay as we slid the RF up to the top of the mast.
This is a technique similar to what electricians use to draw a messenger into conduit before pulling wire.
Even if you install a new headstay, at ground level, this may be helpful in getting the wire into the RF.
|06-10-2008 06:26 PM|
I just bought and installed the Schaefer Snapfurl CF700 a couple months ago. I had the convenience of doing it mostly indoors as I have a trailerable MacGregor so I took the forestay indoors (garage) to measure then put it mostly together across two rooms. (It was too cold outside) Being able to have the mast down and boat in the driveway was very convenient. I cannot stress enough the importance of getting the measurements right and doing the math a dozen times before cutting. When doing your calculations and adding them all up do them again from different points in the equations. Start from the finish and work backwards then pick another point and work from there until all your calculations synchronize no matter where you start from. This will catch those goofy little math mistakes that don't show up so readily but do show up when working backwards or from another starting point because the answers will be different and you will wonder why. Make sure you do the math until it is ingrained in your mind. The 'D' shackles add to the measurements there are three of them, the one on the top end of the halyard swivel has no impact just the other two do. The top of my forestay is swagged and the swag took up some of the forestay length so my foil was cut a tiny bit shorter. Try and allow for an inch or maybe just a half inch between the swag and the black plastic cap that goes on the top of the foil for future forestay length adjustment. The foil should be long enough to allow for a full stretched luff otherwise get the sail shortened by a loft. I had my hank-ons converted to #6 luff tape and at the same time the sail luff shortened for the foil (NorthSails). The Schaefer requires at least a 5/32 wire forstay and mine was only 1/8 so I had to replace it. I ended up getting a complete 5/32 forestay with a new and bigger 5/16 turnbuckle to replace the OEM 1/4 turnbuckle and 1/8 wire so now my whole headsail unit is new.
It is not manually a difficult job, if I can do it any moron can but I will say it is a job prone to making mistakes in calculations so get the math done a dozen times and then get it checked by someone else with fresh eyes. After all was done I thought it was a miracle that I actually got it all together with no mistakes, it was very stressfull. In the end I decided that as convenient an option a rollerfurler is, it is not worth the extra complication it adds to trailering set-up. It took us a half dozen attempts to raise the mast and in the process the heavy foil would knock the jib pulley behind one shroud or another or the halyard would jump off the pulley or after getting everything aligned up there discover that while being focused at the hound we inadvertantly caught a line or wire under the mast step and had to do it again. (we weren't watching the base). There is no way this exercise can be performed over water, we did it all on land on the trailer then launched. There are some small pieces to attach to the roller drum so if you are over water you may want a safety net in place to catch the pieces you drop. Perhaps a hoola hoop with a big nylon stocking around it under your forestay tang. Better have something or Davy Jones will claim the pieces.
Now that it is installed and we have tested and used it we are quite happy with it. I can switch from jib to genoa and do not require a UV strip because I always take the headsail down and bag it just like a hank-on. Next time out I check wind conditions and then decide which headsail to hoist. I only leave it on overnight on weekends. It is a very nice unit and I really recommend it for a slipped boat not a trailerable. We buy moorage and slip for six months a year so I do not have to raise the mast and dance with the furler too much. You made a good choice selecting the Snapfurl, enjoy!
|06-10-2008 09:17 AM|
Originally Posted by Sometimesbrilliant View Post
The big "BUT" is that you are in Ontario where it gets very cold and freezes in the winter. In the summer moisture can travel down the stay and find it's way into the lower swage fitting. Over the years this constant expansion and freezing of any moisture in the lower swage can cause it to develop hairline cracks fail.
Also, many times the foil will not fit over the head stay with the swaged fittings in place, not sure about the Schaefer. If it won't you'll need to use a mechanical fitting like a Sta-Loc and install it after the foil is in place..
This is a photo of the Norseman mechanical fitting I used on my Harken furler that I installed last spring..
|06-10-2008 09:08 AM|
Originally Posted by sander06 View Post
I'm not worried about my technical ability. I've worked on plenty of mechanical systems in the past. But I'm also smart enough to ask people for tips and advice before starting a new project.
Just because one ask a question does not mean they are not capable.
|06-10-2008 06:48 AM|
|sander06||Have a rigger do it.|
|06-09-2008 07:08 PM|
Originally Posted by Sometimesbrilliant View Post
As well as SD's advice about the headstay. Think about it . You are installing a furling system that should last you quite awhile. You don't want to have to start worrying about your headstay 5 yrs down the road. If it has a few years on it. Replace it. For your boat it won't cost much and you can hold onto the old one for a spare.
The furler you bought is sometimes called a snap-furl. It will go on the wire without cutting off either terminal.
If you take your time and follow the directions... to the letter... you shouldn't have any problems.
|06-09-2008 06:54 PM|
NOt sure about the model furler you bought, but do you have to cut the bottom terminal to install the foil? You might want to replace the forestay if it is older, or if had a previous foil istalled. In my case, when I replaced the furler on my boat I couldn't easily get the old foil off. It was much easier to replace (not much $$$ either) and start anew.
FYI - when it came time to install the foil sections on my boat, I found that I could assemble them and then push them one by one up the forestay. I then assembled the next and connected it to the bottom of the previous one. When I got to the last section I was able to measure the distance from the drum to the bottom of the last next to last foil section. I then made the cut, removed all the sections, and reinstalled with the short cut section at top. This made sure the foil sections and the drum fit together the way they were intended. Bottom line, its not rocket science. If I can do it, anyone can.
|06-09-2008 06:34 PM|
Ok, I'm green. Why replace the forestay? It's a metal cable?
Unless it's a saltwater then (I'm sailing on the Great Lakes, so not an issue) I can kinda see the point.
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