|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-10-2008 01:20 AM|
Screwed in stanchions = screwed sailor... Sorry couldn't stop myself...
I'm going to rebed mine soon... The safest way is to get a don casey book to read through... Use the widest possible backing plates possible to avoid stress cracks around the base since when you need them, you really need them...
|06-09-2008 08:11 PM|
|fullkeel7||For better under deck access with a cordless, use an extension or one of those flexible ones that fit the drive (1/4, 3/8 or 1/2 inch) of your cordless and your universal 6 point deep well socket. That way there is no need to have access inside tight spots for the cordless.|
|06-09-2008 08:02 PM|
Originally Posted by Freesail99 View Post
The whole point of me using the impact driver is it makes it an easy one person job without having to use Gorilla Tape and a pair of Vise Grips...
BTW if an impact driver will not fit, a pair of needle nose Vise Grips and Gorilla Tape will. Simply taping the vise grips to the underside of the deck, clamping the nut, with this tenacious tape has worked every single time for me.. Quick and easy but not as quick and easy as an impact driver..
|06-09-2008 07:27 PM|
|Freesail99||The key word here is access permitting. As far as using a rechargeable impact driver, good luck in keeping the screw driver in the slot on the bolt, up top. Most of the bolts have a slotted head.|
|06-09-2008 06:54 PM|
This job can be done most of the time, access permitting, from bellow deck with a rechargeable impact driver!
I have re-bedded LOTS of fittings solo with my simple and inexpensive Ryobi 18v impact driver. Honestly it works like magic! Brrrr, brrrr, brrrr and the nut comes off with no wrench or screw driver being used on the deck level! Brrrr, brrrr, brrrr and the nut goes back on with no wrench or screw driver on the deck side.. Be careful because with some of these it's very easy to over torque and snap a bolt clean off. The "IMPACT" effect allows you to tighten from one side in most cases..
Or a slightly higher quality tool with a lifetime warranty:
|06-09-2008 05:56 PM|
Originally Posted by rheaton View Post
I believe what Rheaton is saying is that he cut all the way through one side of a nut. (Rather than a notch). He then threaded the nut onto the bottom of the bolt below the actual nut he was tightening and then grabbed it with the vice grips. The nut having been cut through on one side became a clamp on the threads of the bolt holding it firmly.
Damn good idea in theory.
|06-09-2008 05:44 PM|
|sailingdog||If the fastener holes go through cored laminate and you're not sure about whether the holes were properly potted or not... you should definitely pot them before proceeding. If you're going to bother with all this work, you might as well do it right.|
|06-09-2008 11:07 AM|
I used silkaflex 291, because it does have a good adhesive power and is flexable.
If you drill new holes you may want to pot them with epoxy, you may also want to do that even if you don't drill new holes.
|06-09-2008 11:01 AM|
I rebedded a stanchion and my pushpit (along with some other assorted deck hardware) this spring and I used 3M101 - a polysulfide sealant. It has relatively low adhesive power, but will stay soft and watertight for a long time. It is also easy to remove WHEN you have to remove it.
And as Halekai will be quick to point out, you don't need a ton of adhesive power on such a strong mechanical attachment.
I would second other's comments here and over-drill-and-fill all holes, then countersink the new ones.
|06-09-2008 10:56 AM|
|Joel73||Thanks for resurrecting this thread... i will be re-bedding at some point this fall. What i'm unclear about is what kind of sealant to use... not 5200, that much i know.|
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