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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > ablative or hard bottom paint?
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Thread: ablative or hard bottom paint? Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-29-2008 08:11 PM
Patbarbeau
Quote:
Originally Posted by surftom View Post
One thing to watch out for is that if your Grampian has the OMC saildrive then the copper-based anti-fouling paints are not recommended because of the electrolysis. It does a number on the casing of the OMC saildrive which was notoriously bad.
Tom
Thanks Tom for that piece of info (and everyone else too). My boat is in fact equipped with an OMC saildrive motor and I was unaware of that potential problem...
07-29-2008 10:42 AM
speciald I have applied Sea Hawk "hard" ablative this time. The soft ablative was only lasting one year - we sail about 4000 miles / year. The hard ablative is made for boats that travel faster than most sailboats. It is a harder finish but is still an ablative paint. So far the paint is preforming well. Unfortunately, next time I will have to change from Islander 44 to their new Biocop as the ban on tin-based paints is spreading worldwide.
07-29-2008 09:30 AM
RickQuann I used an ablative paint "Interlux Micron Extra" and have been very pleased, but if I were racing all the time, probably a hard finish.
07-29-2008 09:23 AM
surftom One thing to watch out for is that if your Grampian has the OMC saildrive then the copper-based anti-fouling paints are not recommended because of the electrolysis. It does a number on the casing of the OMC saildrive which was notoriously bad.
I have the same issue - Nash 26 with a saildrive and need to remove the copper based antifouling that the previous owner used. I'll do that in the fall when the boat is hauled.
Tom
07-29-2008 03:32 AM
artbyjody Unless you have the opportunity to hit fresh water all the time... I'd have to say hard is the way to go if you are the racing type - at least then you can hire a diver to scrape off the muck before ... soft ablatives are good as well, but scrubbing the bottom takes off that protective layer each time.

Now if you can go into fresh water at certain intervals, then you can balance the costs.. then again if you are just cruising versus racing that accounts for the decision as well. You'll still spend $$$ regardless - how much is determined by the area of water you are in and the ability to reach other areas of water (ie: fresh versus salt), and how hardcore a sailor you are in terms of performance...

Generally speaking for most, ablatives are cheaper overall unless you are about speed, then hard is the way to go.
07-29-2008 02:08 AM
camaraderie Only after having to re-paint early do people understand the value of the expensive bottom paints.
07-29-2008 01:39 AM
sailingdog Given the season in Hawaii is year round... that's about right... three coats of an ablative would probably last two seasons for many people up here in New England, where the season is Six-months long.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CellNav View Post
I painted my C-27 with three coats of ablative (West Marine's primium) about a year ago. The paint is just about at the end of it's useful life. I do sail the boat every weekend here in Hawaii, but I'd hoped it would last longer. I'm not sure if this is the norn, but something to consider.
07-28-2008 11:54 PM
Fstbttms
Quote:
Originally Posted by CellNav View Post
I'd hoped it would last longer.
You were dreaming, my friend.
07-28-2008 11:47 PM
CellNav I painted my C-27 with three coats of ablative (West Marine's primium) about a year ago. The paint is just about at the end of it's useful life. I do sail the boat every weekend here in Hawaii, but I'd hoped it would last longer. I'm not sure if this is the norn, but something to consider.
07-28-2008 11:06 PM
SkywalkerII Ablative paints wear off with the flow of the water. If you hose or powerwash the bottom, you'll see the ablative paint coming off. Hard paints only come off with sanding or blasting.

The ablative paints are great in terms of keeping layers of old paint off the bottom. This makes it easier to keep the bottom smooth, free of the "craters" that flaking old paint leave behind. A light sanding before recoating is all you need.

BTW, I've been using E paint ablative with great results.

Hope this helps.

Skywalker
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