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  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-10-2003 02:06 AM
WHOOSH
topsides paint

Jim, you''ll want to use a flattening agent (sold by all the mfgrs) for horizontal surfaces (deck, cabin top) to kill the glare. In addition, you''ll want to add non-skid material of some kind (there are many choices) to all the non-skid areas.

I''ve used lots of Brightside and also Interthane from International and don''t think Brightside will produce a long-lasting finish...altho'' I''m sure it can be made to look nice from a few feet away when first applied. The 2-part polyurethanes are far more wear-resistant and, altho'' more costly and a bit more of a hassle to prepare, no harder to apply and will carry the cost of their application for a longer period of time.

Be sure to use both the manufacturer''s educational materials and their 800#; there are lots of niggly details, each of which will contribute to a better (or worse) result.

Jack
11-06-2003 07:34 AM
h37skipper
topsides paint

High gloss is not necessarily a problem. I did the decks(topsides are the sides of the boat) with Interlux. I used Brightside for the non-skid, a straight Off White to get away from the Gray. Then I used Toplac, White and Off White mixed. So far I have only done the cabin trunk. I do not find the gloss to be any brighter than new gelcoat.

Now I am starting to think I might use two-part for the side decks. Some testing shows that 2-part is significantly tougher. And you can get flattening agents for Interlux 2-part.
11-06-2003 03:16 AM
JimOppy
topsides paint

This winter I''m removing all the hardware from my deck, including hatches and ports, to paint the deck. The old paint/gelcoat is crazed in a few places, though not deep. The question is - is there a one part topsides paint that is NOT high gloss, that does NOT require sanding between coats? I want a flat finish, both to reduce glare and to aid in the non-skid properties of the deck. In my mind, the shinnier the paint, the slicker the footing.

Jim

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