|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-12-2008 07:33 PM|
|Capnblu||Use BUTYL. It never hardens, sticks to itself and everything else. Get it at any glass shop.|
|08-12-2008 12:47 PM|
Originally Posted by NOLAsailing View Post
|08-11-2008 03:35 PM|
|sorcerer33||I'm with you on the stretchier more flexible adhesive. I don't know what the original material was but it was horrible. Wish I had heard from you before I started the job! We'll see in couple of years what it's like to remove the 4100. I was warned against silicone sealants by a surveyor who thought silicone sealant was an oxymoron. He suggested the 4100. The fitting as I said is a flat plate with U bolts welded through it with nuts that fasten below deck into metal plates that are bolted to the hull. Removal of the chainplates is complicated by the fact that when you pull them up through the metal plates below decks some damage is done to the threads. I discovered this problem when I was removing caulk from the bolts and ended up stabbing myself twice with the sharp thin brittle stainless steel threads that had broken away from the bolts. I'm not loving my boat yet.|
|08-11-2008 01:31 PM|
Chuck, it sounds like the Caliber uses a stronger (and less conventional) chainplate fitting. In conventional fittings, 4200 would be the wrong material to use because it is not designed as a highly flexible seal, nor is it easy to dig out and rebed every year or two. It's overkill (too strong) for that job.
For your Caliber, it might be right--but since there's no need for that much "grip" and a six-foot prybar is inconvenient...it probably is still the wrong goo for the job.
I think it was a Westerly where I saw the chainplate deck connections mafe up rather differently. Metal plate with a D ring, one above deck, one below, sandwiched together with four bolts. Sounds like what you have--and it was designed for the North Sea, to keep water out of the boat. Still, those bolts MIGHT work, MIGHT leak, so something that is very stretchy, very conformable, but removed and replaced without the six-foot prybar might be the better choice of sealants.<G>
|08-11-2008 01:01 PM|
|sorcerer33||I have rebedded all the chainplates on my 1993 Caliber 40 this summer. The yard owner (also a sailor) told me to do this every 2 years if I am doing offshore cruising less often if I am doing coastal cruising. The chainplates were easily accessible and the nuts came out easily but prying them out was miserable. I ultimately had to use a six foot pry bar for the larger aft chainplates. I cleaned out the remaining caulk as best I could with a knife and a file. It took me hours to carefully pry out the plates. If you have done this you will realize there is no cover to be removed on deck. The chainplate is basically a plate that sits on the deck with a U bolt that goes through it. I'm sure you have done this by now - but I wonder how it went. I did use 4200 - I'm not sure why you were told not to use it. --Chuck Gleason|
|08-04-2008 01:12 PM|
It is very simple and should be done at least annually. There is a cover plate that is commonly held in place with two screws. The plate fits around the chainplates on the deck. Remove the screws and tie/tape the plate up and out of the way (no need to remove the shrouds). Scrape away all of the old sealant and clean the area thoroughly. Lay down plenty of new sealant (DO NOT use 4200 or 5200) and rebed the cover plate.
As far as sealant goes, I recommend 3M 101.
Also, if you have a leak, it may have compromised the core. If that's the case the job will be more difficult. While the cover plate is off, see if the core is wet or rotten. If it is, you'll need to excavate the core around the chainplate, fill with epoxy thickened with colloidal silica, and rebed as described above.
|08-04-2008 12:55 PM|
I have a drip coming from one of the chainplates when it rains. Has anyone had any experience rebedding the chainplates? Is it a very difficult job?
1999 Caliber 40LRC