|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-13-2008 03:08 PM|
Mine aren't Bomars, but a solid stainless steel assemblies from Whitewater marine, apparently imported from Taiwan.
And I agree, 5200 would be the wrong stuff. I've heard 3M 101 recommended for these type portlights...a urethane caulk. But I'll bet the 4200 will work fine.
|08-13-2008 02:51 PM|
They sound like Bomar portlights. I just bought some to replace some leaking fixed ports I have. Mine also install from the inside but use 12 number 12 screws to install. Your right about the trim piece, it is there to "dress" the window up. They recommend using 5200 to install the windows, but I wouldn't. I plan on using 4200.
I have instructions if you need them.
|08-13-2008 01:10 PM|
I plan to remove, rebuild, and replace my portlight assemblies on my Caliber 33. The seals between the opening piece and the frames are shot, and the glass itself is delaminated and ugly.
I removed one portlight assembly already, removed the glass and cleaned up the frame. A relatively easy job. I sourced replacement glass at my local glass shop and have the new seal material on hand.
I guess I'm concerned with the attachment method used to secure the portlight frame to the boat, in the original install. The portlight is installed by pushing the assembly from inside of the cabin, towards the outside, and securing with sheetmetal type screws (six)...from inside the cabin. They aren't bolted, just screwed. What you see on the outside of the cabin trunk is simply a trim ring, also secured with sheetmetal style screws. It doesn't perform any function beyond hiding the gap, and of course the sealant, between the portlight cut out and the portlight. So there's nothing but six sheetmetal screws, and the sealant present between the cut out and the portlight itself, to keep the portlight from falling into the cabin. (Granted, that hasn't happened).
I believe that other brand portlights are through bolted, from the trim ring to the portlight itself, providing a more secure arrangement. Or failing that, machine screws are used from the inside (instead of sheetmetal style screws), with countersunk nuts on the outside...covered by the trim ring.
Anyone have any thoughts on this subject, or ideas on how to proceed?