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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-08-2008 07:10 PM
latestcaper Thanks for the replies. Some of the caulk is missing and the wood is pretty rough. So it looks like I will be removing the caulk. I did not know that you could sand the caulk. I figured it was like rubber? But that would explain how it is perfectly even with the wood unlike the caulk in my shower. Also did not know about taping the bottom so it won't stick to the fiber glass.
So let me make sure I have this right.
1. Stop and buy some rum and cokes
2. remove caulk
3. tape bottom of joint and around the edges
4. caulk
5. get more rum
6. sand wood and caulk until smooth
7. remove tape
8. enjoy
Thanks again,
09-03-2008 08:01 AM
sailingdog Generally turns it yellow and starts to cause it to break down. If it is tinted black, it might not need as much protection, but to be safe, I'd varnish it at a minimum.
09-03-2008 07:52 AM
1970Columbia34 not sure you really have to when its thickened and tinted black, what will the UV do to solid epoxy? I am asking as I don't know.
09-03-2008 07:50 AM
sailingdog Scott-

Need to finish the epoxy, since it isn't UV-resistant and needs some protection from the UV.
09-03-2008 07:17 AM
1970Columbia34 why would the eopxy not work on a non-finsihed deck? same install sand the epoxy smooth and just don't finish it. What advantage does the caulk have over black eopxy?

09-02-2008 04:18 PM
PorFin Scott,

As others have said earlier -- beautiful job there! Your solution will undoubtedly last for many, many years. However, it's not the way to go if Randy wants to keep his teak "naked" as a non-skid surface.

Randy -- I am also going to tackle this headache this winter. There are a few pretty useful threads from earlier in the year on how others have elected to go. Don Casey's got an opinion (I can't remember if it's posted on the BoatUS on-line library or not, but you might want to look there.) Good Old Boat has info on-line as well.

I'm seriously considering buying a Fein MultiMaster tool with the right blades -- but will see just how onerous the job is simply using a utility knife and a bent screwdriver first.

Best of luck,
09-02-2008 03:54 PM
1970Columbia34 seems to work great mine seats have been in for 3 years and the floor for one season, both are in the same condition as day 1. i can say that its problay the more expensive way of doing it but its solid as a rock and looks great. plus in my situation it was all new teak so in my method there are no screws and plugs to mess with.

09-02-2008 03:32 PM
Robby Barlow Columbia, must say I agree with Gary1, but then again the finished thing does look good. On the other hand, is the 'most' complicated way to do things necessarily the best?
09-02-2008 03:22 PM
1970Columbia34 yeah its thickened west system epoxy with graphite powder to turn it a black color.

09-02-2008 03:17 PM
Gary1 Huh? You filled the seams up with epoxy?

I'm confused.
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