|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-13-2008 03:50 PM|
AFAIK, If the return line doesn't go into your tank, it still has to go someplace. It can be plumbed back into the feed line (bad idea, the fuel can't cool down and warm fuel doesn't burn with as much power) or it can be plumbed into the fill line, but it has to go SOMEwhere. Or else the high pressure pump and injectors are getting a needless workout against the excess pressure.
Sending it back into the tank allows it to mix with the cooler fuel in the tank and cool back down.
|09-13-2008 07:47 AM|
My olde diesel tank does not have a fuel return line. The motor is a 1977 Volvo MD17C.
Clean fuel and oil and that old motor will probably start and run fine. It probably just needs some exercise.
|09-11-2008 07:58 PM|
|Stillraining||Interesting engines Iv never seen one before...Looks to be hot exhaust.|
|09-11-2008 06:02 PM|
The left pump has a rubber diaphragm. They don't last forever, and you can't rebuild them as they are pressed together.
You may already know this but you should treat the low pressure system and the high pressure system completely independently. You have to bleed the low pressure system first, before the high pressure system. Assuming the engine has been running...and you only change filters or work on the low pressure pump, you only need to bleed that system, you do not need to bleed the the high pressure system. Spending time bleeding both is a common mistake.
|09-11-2008 05:53 PM|
The approximate center of your second photo is your low pressure fuel pump (aka lift pump). It's the round hockey puck shaped thing. Your last photo shows your high pressure pump (aka injector pump) at the bottom left. The high pressure fuel lines come up out that the injector pump and lead to your injectors.
The correct order is tank, primary filter (Racor or something), lift pump, secondary filter (the white spin on filter in your photo), then the high pressure pump, and then to the injectors. You may have a return line circling back in some where or it may go straight back to the tank.
It looks like someone has been bleeding air at the top of the high pressure pump based on the paint removed there. There is no reason to do that.
|09-11-2008 04:50 PM|
Thanks Jim, I did download a copy of that manual.
Is anyone else familiar with this engine? The manual shows a mechanical fuel pump between the tank and filter, but this is what I see. Here is the fuel filter. The newer looking black line comes from where the fuel tank was. There is no pump in between the the phantom tank and the filter that I can see. The older copper painted line comes out of the filter and I think goes into the round mechanism in the next picture which I believe is the mechanical pump.
It looks like this might be a fuel pump? between the filter and injector pump? Not where the manual shows it. Does the pump suck fuel through the filter instead of pushing it through the filter? Or should it be sucking from the tank and pushing it through the filter enroute to the injector pump?
This most certainly is the injection pump:
Is this hooked up correctly?
|09-08-2008 09:25 PM|
|JimsCAL||The engine is almost certainly a Universal 5411. You can download the manual at the Catalina 30 owners website.|
|09-08-2008 10:29 AM|
The difference is that a diesel tank must have a return from the engine for excess fuel that is all.
You might try here for an exact fit.
Tempo Products 2004 Catalog
Originally Posted by countrybumpkin View Post
|09-08-2008 09:52 AM|
Okay, now how about replacement tank? Would a modified plastic outboard tank work?
or a buck fifty for something like this:
is there a difference between a GAS and DIESEL tank?
You have all been a wealth of knowledge. Surely someone has replace a fuel tank before.
|09-07-2008 03:47 PM|
You might want to pull the injectors and send them out (to any diesel shop) to have them checked. Sitting for a couple of years without having been mothballed, they may have corroded a bit even if they were clean, and having them serviced will assure you that's not going to be a problem or performance issue.
Not necessary--but a way to make sure 'everything' is right. Also check the procedure for bleeding your fuel lines (which you will have to do) and if that requires any crush washers, order a box full of them. They are strictly "use once and replace" and you'll often get air in the fuel lines if you don't replace them. Cheaper by the dozen.
And you might want to remove the fuel lines and blow them out, if they weren't capped or plugged. Little critters like spiders tend to nest in open lines and pipes--you don't need that in your fuel lines.
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