|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-29-2008 11:35 AM|
|sailingdog||Yes, temperature does matter for both painting and fiberglass work. If it is too cold, you can't really successfully do either. If you can tent the boat or put it in an enclosure, you may be able to extend how far into the winter you can work, but heating an enclosure will often be counter-productive to getting a good paint job.|
|09-29-2008 10:35 AM|
Ok, I will do that then.
I think what I really am worred about is being ablepaint boat. I know that it is about to be getting cold and I dont want to wait to late the paint the boat. What is the lowest temperature that I want to be painting at?
How about fiberglass work, does temperature matter for it also?
|09-29-2008 03:49 AM|
|US27inKS||I would go ahead and remove the deck hardware like SD suggested. Odds are that you have hardware going through a cored deck, and the core is not sealed from the bolt hole. Remove the hardware, the clean out and open up the holes, and fill with epoxy. Then you can redrill before you reinstall hardware, and not worry about the core getting wet in the future.|
|09-28-2008 02:10 PM|
tommays- The lifeline bases are stainless steel but the others are not. They are something coated with chrome I do believe. The one in that picture is SS though. I will try and post the other picture.........
This one may be able to be re-plated. I wonder if I could just purchase some new SS bases? The only thing is that they are not square but are angled slightly for the bowrail. Any chance of finding some angled correctly?
|09-26-2008 03:01 PM|
The base in the picture looks welded and may be SS which could just be brought back to a nice shine if it is
If you need to chrome and motorcycle or car place
|09-26-2008 01:27 PM|
Thanks for the replies everyone.
The rub rail is on but not very good. I think I may just get a new one and glue it on or however it attaches.
I will check the life line stantions for flexing and see if I can stiffen the bases up a bit. Replating them may be the best idea, any idea of the cost for 4 bases getting replated?
I do plan on rewiring the whole boat but I was thinking about waiting to do that since I could drill holes and run the wires through whatever plywood "furniture" I add. Or is there somehting I am not thinking about?
SD- Should I go ahead and remove the deck hardware even though it may a month or so before I get around to painting the topsides? One thing I am worried about it the air temperature. I was thinking maybe I should do the hull and topsides while it was still warm then wait for the cabin because I could heat it up in there with a small electric heater. Or is there somehting I am not thinking of here?
Randy- THat is a good point but one reason I bought this boat was to learn how fix/redo/paint a sailboat. So I think I will do whatever needs doing just to learn how to do it.
I think I may have figured out the head placement problem but it just will not be to "private". To me that is not that big of a deal but this is a boat to sell, are other people more concerned about pirvacy?
I am heading down the other boat today and staying for the weekend. I will be back on the reply Sunday.
Thanks everyone for all of your time!
|09-26-2008 11:03 AM|
Looks like a nice project, after I sold my portager 22 I looked at a few other boats, one was a southcoast like yours, seemed to be a solid boat, but I decided against it because it was pretty much the same thing as the portager (nice boat and sailed well, but I just never liked pop-tops or swing keels, plus I was looking to go a bit larger.)
As for figuring out if the head is big enough, the method I always use when determining a layout is to build it out of cardboard then go through the motions of using it. Works great, if you build it in position, and everything works, you have most of your cut patterns ready to go.
|09-26-2008 10:50 AM|
I'd suggest you set back and take a good look at what you have and use it for what its worth.
Fix what needs to be fixed, and go sailing.
|09-26-2008 09:33 AM|
I'd highly recommend you work from the inside out... as you're doing the interior the chances of making the exterior a bit worse is pretty high, so you'll want to do the exterior painting—hull, deck, bottom—last.
Remove as much of the deck hardware as you can, and leave it off until you paint the deck. The paint job will be easier and last longer if you remove the deck hardware.
Just remember, preparation is 95% of the work in a good paint job, and most paint jobs succeed or fail based on the prepwork done.
|09-26-2008 09:14 AM|
The crazing's no big deal. There are plenty of products on the market to handle that. Just make sure it's not from a weak/spongy deck.
Before you go moving bulkheads, make sure none of them are there for structural support. If they are, you'll want to devise a way to maintain integrity when the bulkhead is moved. From the looks of things, the "table leg" is all you have to worry about, since you're not moving the companionway bulkhead.
While you've got the interior out, I'd consider any electrical upgrades at that point.
I'm pretty much in the same boat as you (no pun intended) w/ my 31'.
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