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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Advice refinishing teak and holly sole
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Thread: Advice refinishing teak and holly sole Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-24-2009 08:03 AM
audeojude
Quote:
Originally Posted by camaraderie View Post
No arguments with any of the previous advice. Would like to suggest a "varnish" product that I bought for my sole at the Annapolis boat show and was VERY pleased with. Called Ultimate Sole and it goes on with a foam brush with NO between coat sanding. Dries to a hard hi gloss finish but is NOT slippery...indeed is less slippery than normal finishes even when wet.
I think the website is www.ultimatesole.com...no personal interest...just a plug for a good product.
I just went to the above website and it is still there but they don't look like they are still in business.. all the products have been removed from the site. It's just an empty website now.
02-20-2006 09:16 PM
joub
experience...teak and holy sole

I refinished my teak sole with polyurathane and was pleasantly surprised to find that it didn't get slippery when wet! If I had it to do over again I would use spar varnish to "build" the thickness faster and then finish off with polyurathane for a more abrasion resistant surface.
02-15-2006 12:52 AM
gc
Experience

I have about 15 years experience with my current boat. That includes revarnishing everything below at least once. And lot of experience with teak cleaner on a previous boat. It is hard to get both good looking and non-slippery floor boards. My solution has been throw rugs with rubberized non-slip backing. I do recommend using exterior varnish even below decks on a boat. The cost savings of interior varnish are eaten up by having to do it again sooner because of the fading.
02-14-2006 05:21 PM
Irwin32 GC:

Is it wrong to assume you are speaking from experience? I like your idea, as I was faced with this job as well. Floor looks OK, but is faded and very slippery. A simple sanding and adding another coat or 2 or 3 of varnish would simlpify the whole thing greatly.
02-14-2006 11:46 AM
gc My $.02 worth:
1) I have yet to find a chemical stripper that works satisfactorily. Now I use a heat gun and scraper - it is not hard to keep from scorching. But best is to avoid stripping altogether.
2) Removing the staining will be harder than you think. Teak cleaner is very difficult to control unless you use it on everything. Other techniques require lots of experience to get right. Water stains at least are honest and not out of place on a boat - do you really need to clean them? You might end up with a cleaned spot just as noticeable as the water stain.
3) You might be surprised how much sunlight gets below in a boat. I used interior varnish below and regret it. Lots of fading.
4) Double check the thickness of the veneer that is applied to the plywood. It is very easy to go through it with a power sander.
5) Do you really need the epoxy? How long did the original finish last? Would you be satisfied if the new one lasted that long? It would simplify the job a lot to just refinish (sand and recoat with varnish).
02-13-2006 09:33 PM
davidiz
Ultimate Sole

I also heard recommendations about this product and thought I'd try it. After it dried, about 5 days, we placed non-slip throw rugs down on the high traffic areas. After a few months I noticed that the varnish picked up the pattern of the rug's rubberized backing and that a dark film was sticking to the floor. I decided to remove the varnish and had a heck of a time. The rubber from the mats imbedded into the varnish creating a wax paste that was very hard to remove. Did I do something wrong?
02-07-2004 06:46 PM
petercra
Advice refinishing teak and holly sole

The best way to remove interior varnish is with a heat gun and scraper. Although it is possible to char the wood, with careful use that is unlikely. Keep the heat on just long enough for the scraper to peel back the varnish. Keep a vacuum handy as the peeling are fine and will get into everything if you''re not careful.
02-04-2004 07:54 AM
AJS
Advice refinishing teak and holly sole

Definitely use the Varnish over Epoxy method or just epoxy alone since this won''t need UV protection.
Don''t thin the epoxy - not necessary.
Don''t sand finer than 80 grit to ensure good adhesion.
Coat the bottom and edges as well as the upper surface to completely seal the wood from moisture.
There are epoxies meant for clear coating that produce a lovely surface that is durable.
For exterior wood, put varnish coats over the epoxy to protect from UV. The varnish protects the epoxy from the sun, the epoxy seals against water. Varnish is a poor sealer against water.
This technique has been the best for me so far. Exterior wood can be given a light sanding and a new coat of varnish when needed. As long as you seal it well with epoxy, the water will never get under the coating and you''ll never need to sand to bare wood again.
Go to www.westsystem.com for lots of advice on this subject.

AJS
02-04-2004 07:27 AM
camaraderie
Advice refinishing teak and holly sole

No arguments with any of the previous advice. Would like to suggest a "varnish" product that I bought for my sole at the Annapolis boat show and was VERY pleased with. Called Ultimate Sole and it goes on with a foam brush with NO between coat sanding. Dries to a hard hi gloss finish but is NOT slippery...indeed is less slippery than normal finishes even when wet.
I think the website is www.ultimatesole.com...no personal interest...just a plug for a good product.
02-02-2004 09:59 AM
GordMay
Advice refinishing teak and holly sole

Like Rich H says.
You can ease (round off slightly /w a file) the corners on your scraper to help prevent those gouges.
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