|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-13-2008 10:24 PM|
Originally Posted by camaraderie View Post
|10-13-2008 08:57 PM|
Still...you have SEPARATE hookups for charging each battery with the truecharge and MONITORING each battery and DIVERTING current as appropriate. With a single bank charger and no electronic testing and diverting, the TOTAL charge of ALL banks is all the battery charger sees...So... if you have a house bank of 200 amp hours and a 100ah starting battery and you are down 100ah's on your house bank but full on your starting battery...a STANDARD 3 stasge 40 amp charger will see the 300 amp hour total charge down 1/3 and apply a full 40 amps to the total bank...not 1 amp to the starter and 39 to the house.
A bit oversimplified...but that is the reason to use an echocharger if one doesn't have a really sophisticated charger like yours.
|10-13-2008 07:48 PM|
But dont the chargers do this inherently on there own?
The specks in the truecharge 40 says that the voltage delivered to the three banks possible to charge at one time remains the same... but the current flow wont..as the majority of current flow go's to the most depleted bank..resistance is the key here not voltage. Im I wrong?
|10-13-2008 07:02 PM|
As K1VSK said, it makes no sense at all to reverse the EchoCharge device. Among other things, you'd limit your charge on the house batteries to no more than 15 amps (the capacity of the EchoCharge), even if you had upwards of 100 amps available for the house batteries. Dumb, for sure!
Cam said it well, but it bears repeating: starting batteries require very little charging. They only draw a miniscule amount of power when starting the engine (lots of amps but only for a few seconds). Typically, this power is replaced in just a few minutes after you start the engine. After that, what's the alternator to do? Idle?
EchoCharge devices will typically begin sampling and charging the start battery when the voltage exceeds about 12.8. It doesn't have to be 13.0 or more. Furthermore, the charging voltage on your house batteries will reach that threshold very soon, even if they're badly depleted. Remember...it's not the resting voltage of the batteries which causes the EchoCharge to activate; it's the charging voltage. That will reach the necessary 12.8V in just a few minutes after the engine starts and the alternator begins charging the house bank.
Finally, the 50mil draw on the house batteries is for all intents and purposes negligible in a properly designed system. As Cam correctly pointed out, if you anticipate being off shore power for long periods of time, you must provide some other charging source (solar panels, wind generator, etc.) to keep your batteries topped up, otherwise you're gonna kill your batteries through sulfation, stratification, and the other ills which attack chronically undercharged batteries.
|10-13-2008 05:30 PM|
A better explanation can be had by reading the mfg web site description, a portion of which is quoted below.
I highlighted the relevant part:
"Xantrex’ digital echo~charge (part#82-0123-01) is designed to charge auxiliary or starting batteries from an inverter/charger or other charging source with limited voltage drop. The Xantrex echo~charge detects when the house battery bank is being charged and directs a portion of the charge current to auxiliary or starting batteries. The maximum charger current offered by echo~charge is limited to 15 amps.
|10-13-2008 04:28 PM|
Originally Posted by k1vsk View Post
Way i understand this the charger charges one bank to max the kicks to the other.How does that fry a start batt if you reverse it?
|10-13-2008 03:27 PM|
Reversing the eco-charger could have the unintended consequence of over-charging the start battery, leading to a premature death usually when you will most need it.
Reversing the charge scheme (putting the Eco-charger on the house bank) would severely limit the rate at which the house bank would charge.
The purpose of the Eco-charger is to ensure the start battery is not cooked as without it, the start battery would be charged at the same rate as the house bank. If, as most of us do, you have a large house bank, large charging source and a somewhat depleted house bank, the net flow of current into the house bank would be at a rate such that the start battery (presumably not equally discharged) would suffer.
In most respects, every boat should be able to start off a house bank if necessary. There is nothing sacred about a fully charged start battery as long as you have a means of switching over to a house bank for starting when needed.
|10-13-2008 02:07 PM|
Sense to me to
Originally Posted by denverd0n View Post
|10-13-2008 01:55 PM|
Originally Posted by myster
Okay, so maybe I've got this all backwards. I've had people tell me that I do, and they've explained why, but the explanations never quite added up to me. Still makes sense to me that you would want to charge the starting battery first, and the house battery after that.
|10-10-2008 05:56 PM|
1. A wet cell bank of 260 amps will draw itself down by more than that each day. If you have a concern about leaving the boat unattended and without shore power for long periods of time, I would suggest a 20 watt solar panel to keep things topped off.
2. Once the alternator starts charging...the echo charge will sense over 14V rather than the actual state of charge of the house bank. So...both will be charged with the alternator on.
3. Suggest you get a voltmeter or Link system to monitor each bank. From my point of view, I don't care to monitor my start battery as it uses so little current and can thus be checked infrequently as long as I KNOW that my house bank is in good shape...'cause I can always start with my house bank if there is a problem. Still...a small voltmeter is cheap and easy to install if you need that assurance.
Go with the echo charge!
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