|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-30-2010 12:14 PM|
They're asking 17-29,000 on Yactworld. 17 for an A4, 29 for a new diesel, which means 17 for an A4. Less the (ka-ching) retail price of the top and bottom jobs, give or take what "decent" sails might be, any other differences and the usual asking versus selling difference.
Compare those to the boat you're looking at, then see how motivated your seller is.
|07-30-2010 10:36 AM|
I know this post is old but there is a lot of talk from many Ranger owners so figured I take a shot. I have found a 1976 Ranger 33 and was curious on value? It needs a top coat, bottom job, sails are in decent shape, motor is the original Atomic 4, and the boat is over all in okay condition, fresh water kept. What would a boat in that condition be worth, I know its a vague question but a ball park guess from a few people would help me out. Thanks.
|05-27-2010 02:36 PM|
I have Selah, a 1972 Ranger 33, on Mount Hope Bay, MA
|07-08-2009 02:48 PM|
Originally Posted by slagbuster View Post
If you want to PM me a link to the pics, I'd be interested in taking a look.
If it's the same boat, we had an email exchange with the PO, and my husband (I think) got survey info from him.
|07-08-2009 11:41 AM|
|hellosailor||Same things apply to glass, dw. Scratches less, smashes more easily, still no way to know the strength unless you know the material exactly. Or test it. Hopefully it has the greenish cast of "safety glass" to it, so it doesn't become daggers when smashed. (Or a logo in the corner?)|
|07-08-2009 06:36 AM|
Hi - Actually, the portlights in my R-33 are glass.
Does anyone know where to get replacemanr gaskets for the four FRONT SMALL ports?
Thanks - Dennis
|07-07-2009 11:24 PM|
dw, you still with us?
"I just don't know how strong the stock glass (safety glass with a laminate in it like a car safety glass) really is. Any ideas on this?? Thanks!"
Couple of years ago I was helping to replace a set of portlights with new exact replacements from Mark Plastics. My friend was baffled at how to get the old ones out, because the glazing sits in 1" wide plastic channel that in turn is heavily siliconed into the inch thick cabin side and whatever wasn't leaking didn't want to budge. I said "Let's just knock 'em out and implode the frames" and he said no, that's Lexan, you can't just knock it out.
I took the standard 16" ball peen hammer, ball side out, and went "tink" just from my elbox, backhand. The acrylic, very much not Lexan, portlight blew right out and we proceeded to blow them all out and implode the frames.
How strong are your portlights? Well...If you have a spinnaker or whisker pole "up there" somewhere and it decides to come visit the portlight under storm conditions one day....Doe anything less than 1/4" polycarbonate still seem reasonable to you?
When in doubt, go to a glazier, get a scrap of what you've got, put it in a vice and go "tink" with a ball peen hammer. If it survives, go "WHACK!" with the same hammer. When you get one that survives, that's the minimum glazing to look at.
Unless you're just daysailing with "ceiling and vision unlimited" type days.
|07-07-2009 11:15 PM|
nice to see an R33 in this area
I grew up in Padanaram and used Glaser glass alot...not for a boat but always nice people. I ended up getting all new windows from Mark Plastics for $1,000 since my plastic frames were brittle and the glazing could not be removed without destroying them.
My boat is on nantucket and I head north to Maine for three weeks in August. What is your sailing schedule and where do you sail?
I have had Orion, a 1976 33, for nine years and really enjoy the boat. Not only are the lines classic, as Gary Mull worked for Olin Stevens like German Frers, but it is a fast boat...still.
My email is b.courson at comcast dot net. Give me a shout if you are interested. I have never seen another Ranger 33 and would love to rendevouz sometime.
|07-07-2009 10:56 PM|
1971 Ranger 33 windows
I recently purchased Fandango, a 1971 Ranger 33. The windows were the orginal safety glass in aluminum frames. 3 had been removed and siliconed. All were fogged, and leaking.
I removed them, seperated glass from frames, not easy, but I took my time and great care not to break the glass. Inspite of my best effort 2 windows cracked, but the glass remained intact.
I visited the local glazier, Glaser Glass in New Bedford, MA. They have a website. If you call, ask for Mike. It was a little bit over $500, for my windows to be replaced with a scratch resistant clear window.
In hindsight, I should have had the frames re-anodized while they were out. I found a great website on home anodizing. Not sure I would try it, but now have a better understanding of the process, and would have had them colored.
I re-installed the windows with butyl rubber tape. This after I had to deal with some delamination around the window cutouts, which the previous owner had also filled with silicone.
We have had one of the rainiest Springs I can recall and they are dry, clear and bright. It was work, and a small cash outlay, but they look great don't leak and are original. I want to tackle the ports next.
I have begun the rewiring process, with a new Blue Seas panel & custom install at the Nav station. I removed the Electra-San unit and installed holding system, new freshwater tank, lines & fixtures, and we are 80% completed with the deck hardware rebedding.
I am looking forward to racing her on Buzzards Bay, once work & shakedowns are completed.
I have pictures of projects if anybody's interested.
As for windows, or hatches, I whole heartedly endorse Glaser Glass in New Bedford, MA....ask for Mike or Iris.
|02-04-2009 06:56 PM|
Mine doesn't have aluminum, it's an all plastic assembly. I put the sealant on the flange that goes against the outside of the cabin.
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