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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Need advice on non skid paint
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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-13-2004 07:44 AM
HeartofGold
Need advice on non skid paint

For those of you following this and who offered advice, thanks. I was able to lightly sand the areas of the "clumpy" nonskid the next day, and then apply a second coat. There are still some spots where the grit is slightly heavy, but it is difficult to see unless you are looking for it. The color (on the second coat) covered extremely evenly, and it looks great. I soon hope to have pictures on my personal page by the end of the week.

Doug
03-30-2004 03:17 PM
GordMay
Need advice on non skid paint

From WEST System “Epoxyworks 22" (Winter 2004)
http://westsystem.com/ewmag/

“REPAIR MOLDED NON-SKID and GET PROFESSIONAL RESULTS”
By Tom Pawlak

“If the patterned non-skid on your production-built fiberglass boat needs repair, you may be interested to know flexible molds are available for making professional looking repairs. Gibco Flex-Mold™ produces the non-skid patterns used to mold the non-skid on fiberglass boat molds. They also produce flexible molds designed for repairing existing non-skid patterns used on hundreds of production fiberglass and one-off boats. You can call them to see if they have the pattern you are looking for. If the damage to the deck is more than cosmetic, repair it prior to continuing. Refer to the procedures for structural repair as described in our 002-550 Fiberglass Boat Repair & Maintenance manual.

The Flex-Mold is designed to lock into the existing molded pattern on your boat and works best if the pattern has not been painted over. If paint has been applied or if debris has accumulated in the pattern, the fit will be poor at best and the repair will be harder to blend in. Mold release is applied to the Flex-Mold at the factory so epoxy or the polyester gelcoat used to make the repair will not stick to it.

Apply mold release wax to existing non-skid prior to beginning the actual repair. Spread wax well beyond the actual repair because gelcoat will migrate. Use wipe on/wipe off method to apply wax.

Use a router to remove the damaged non-skid. Remove only the thickness of the pattern, no more. If you grind through the opaque white gelcoat or you can see the dark substrate through it, you must then fill the dark low spots with gelcoat so that after molding a new non-skid you do not see the dark laminate through the thinnest, lowest parts of the gelcoat pattern.

If the damage went beyond the base gelcoat thickness, or you are finishing a structural repair, you will have to router a void to fill with a thick enough layer of gelcoat to make an opaque base for the pattern. This layer of gelcoat is then machined with a shallower pass on the router, to level the opaque layer and establish the base of the non-skid pattern. Break the corner of the routed area with sandpaper.

Position the Flex-Mold over the area to be repaired, moving it around until it locks onto the pattern. Tape one end down securely and roll back the Flex-Mold until the repair area is accessible.

Pour catalyzed gelcoat (you can use epoxy but it will require painting) near the Flex-Mold.

Slowly flex the mold forward while continuously engaging the non-skid pattern. Use a stiff rubber or plastic spreader to uniformly apply pressure to the backside of the Flex-Mold, effectively squeezing out the excess gelcoat. Allow the gelcoat to cure before removing the mold. Clean up excess gelcoat film (surrounding the repair) with an air nozzle or by brushing the area with a stiff bristled brush. When done correctly, the repair will not be detectable.

If you are interested in doing your own non-skid repairs, contact Gibco Flex-Mold at 817-236-5021 or gibco@swbell.net”

Epoxyworks 22 / Winter 2004
03-30-2004 05:21 AM
sailnaway
Need advice on non skid paint

Be careful about painting over the grit. I was on a boat that they did that on. I was carrying two tool boxes and stepped on the painted nonskid and woke up with a fractured back after flying off the fly bridge and landing on the deck below. Maybe thats why they call them fly bridges.
03-26-2004 04:06 PM
phunter
Need advice on non skid paint

I have read that yoou can paint a second coat without the granules and it will soften the surface a bit.
03-26-2004 08:59 AM
deseely
Need advice on non skid paint

The grit used by Interlux can be sanded off without much trouble, that is one of the reasons I used it on my boat. If you screw it up, you can just sand it off and try again.
03-25-2004 05:34 AM
HeartofGold
Need advice on non skid paint

I goofed, and I''d like a little feedback. I applied my first coat of non skid to my boat yesterday. I used Interdeck, but I added some Interlux non skid particles, as I wanted additional texture. Unfortunately I added a little too much, and it came out quite clumpy. I tried to spread it but that did not work. In despiration I used a plastic scraper to remove the excess, which worked ok.

There are still some areas with an excessive amount of "grit." Should I sand these areas down and reapply? Any and all comments are welcome, but please, don''t be too hard on me. I already know where I messed up.

Thanks in advance.

Doug

 
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