|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|12-19-2015 12:12 AM|
Re: Rudder Overhaul
I've got Ranes' old boat Dream Catcher (see first post), and pulled the rudder this year to see how it was doing. It is made out of Schedule 40 6061 T6 aluminium tubing, which has a 2.8" diameter and a wall thickness of about 0.2". I went through the calculations on page 176 of the ABS GUIDE FOR BUILDING AND CLASSING YACHTS. If it was solid aluminum, the minimum diameter where the rudder enters the boat should have been 3.15 inches. I'm assuming that it was just a rebuild of the original design, so no wonder it broke - especially if the corrosion caused pitting at where the stock exits the hull I'm probably going to fill it with a solid piece of 7075 alloy
|02-18-2009 04:52 PM|
Thanks for the info John. Everything in this boat will be like new when all done here in a few months. I plan on taking the entire steering system apart and have thought about moving the pedestal back approx 4 inches to accomidate a larger wheel to sit on the sides of the cockpit while sailing and comfortably reach the wheel. The only other option would be too use a longer shaft coming out of the pedestal but so far I haven't found anything.
|02-18-2009 03:27 PM|
Barrier coat on the rudder and no water penetration
After closer inspection last night I found the slop to be in the mechanical side of the system. I had my dad look at it as well he told me to take it apart do the bearnings and it would definately would need to be re shimmedthere was no water in the rudder itself. I am going to be doing a complete bottom job this spring as soon as it starts to warm up would it be recommended to apply a barrier coat to the rudder as well?/QUOTE]
That is good news! As long as you are taking things apart and doing a bottom job I would include the rudder in the process..... you never know what all of that old paint is hiding
Once you get all of the paint off the gelcoat on the rudder you will be able to see what kind of shape it is in. Look for cracks, signs of moisture penetration around the stock where it enters the blade. Also "sound" the rudder with plastic hammer liker we surveyors use or a screwdriver handle to listen for soft spots and signs of delamination. The blade should ring like a "bell" when you sound it.
|02-18-2009 12:03 PM|
After closer inspection last night I found the slop to be in the mechanical side of the system. I had my dad look at it as well he told me to take it apart do the bearnings and it would definately would need to be re shimmedthere was no water in the rudder itself. I am going to be doing a complete bottom job this spring as soon as it starts to warm up would it be recommended to apply a barrier coat to the rudder as well?
|02-17-2009 11:56 PM|
Originally Posted by Islander30Bahama View Post
Where is the wobble on your rudder? If the blade is shifting on the stock (rudder shaft), you have a very serious problem... as in don't use the vessel until it is evaluated and repaired. If she is on the hard drill a hole in the bottom of the rudder and see if water comes out and then go from there.
If the movement is just slop in the steering system such as the bearings around the stock .... then you have some mechanical work to do such as bearing replacement and shim installation. Possible steering cable/chain replacement. Steering cable sheeve inspection and service.
Given the age of your vessel it's probably a good idea to drop the rudder and service the entire steering system if this has not be done recently.
Edson has some very good resources on their website including a checklist: Edson Steering Inspection Checklist.
|02-17-2009 02:12 PM|
Wowser what a thread. About rudders when I grab onto mine I get a lot of wobble out of it and I am stinkin that I need to take it apart and clean and inspect everything. So i suppose my question would be what in tarnations should I be wanting to do to make it tight and not sloppy?
|02-17-2009 01:01 PM|
"Aluminum is fine for rudder posts, as long as"
Which is why I asked, if there's no armature. It would be a small craft that had a rudder post with no other structural metal in the rudder.
|02-17-2009 08:28 AM|
Aluminum is fine for rudder posts, as long as there's no stainless in contact with it. Aluminum does quite well underwater, as long as it isn't in close proximity to more noble metals, like Stainless Steel, or Bronze.
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
|02-17-2009 01:03 AM|
I just inherited a 1977 37' Islander MS. My in laws and I are looking to redo this boat and would love some pictures of your boats (interior, exterior, cockpit and engine room) to give us some fresh ideas. Any help would be great. Thanks! Please PM me to get my Email address to send the pictures.
|02-11-2009 05:31 PM|
ranes, with an aluminum rudder post, are you welding it to an aluminum armature as well? Or just using a post without armature in the rudder?
I'd thought that aluminum rudder posts would corrode even faster than stainless does.
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