|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|12-26-2008 04:52 PM|
The original ceiling in our '78 Pearson was attached by 1/2" screws into the core of the deck above. This seems to have caused no problems in 30 years. Maybe it was just dumb luck. Maybe it was because it's the underside of a horizontal surface, so there's no water running over it. So when it came time to replace the ceiling, I followed suit. Maybe it wasn't a good idea, but...
Along a similar line: When I installed the windlass this past summer, I found there were some places where I wanted to secure the 0 gauge wires but therer were no attachment points. I used polyurethane construction adhesive to glue small white oak wood blocks to which I then screwed the cable ties. I suppose only time will tell, but was this unwise?
|12-24-2008 04:04 PM|
|sailingdog||If there was a faster, easier, cheaper way to do this, don't you think most boat manufacturers would be using it... There's a reason the old proven methods are usually the right ones to go with. Unless there is a change in technology or materials, the old methods are usually the right ones.|
|12-24-2008 01:17 PM|
|ronspiker||Most glues and adhesives don't work on teak. It is an oily wood so the glue doesn't hold well, that is why you will see teak furniture either screwed together or some type of tongue and pin type construction. If you should try to glue it you first need to wipe the edges being glued with denatured alcohol, that will help with the adhesion.|
|12-24-2008 01:16 PM|
|celenoglu||Justified's method is best for teak. The only problem is, after you clean the surface with acetone or thinner the traces of the cleaner should evoporate completely. But waiting too lon will cause the oils to reach to thesurface again. You can also use alcohol for cleaning. After cleaning the surface with acetone, alcohol or thinner wait for evoporaiton and apply a coat of epoxy and let it dry. You can later apply a second coat of epoxy and attach them to the fiberglass.|
|12-24-2008 12:41 PM|
Saildog has the right ideas on the cedar or the white oak strips 1/2" should be the right thickness, will still bend nicely to the shape of the hull. If you glue/epoxy the teak you will need to clean the teak with acetone or lacquer thinner to get rid of the natural oils in the wood then the epoxy will work fine. the other way would be to screw the finish on but you would want to use an over sized or elongated hole so that you allow for any movement/ flex in the hull, use a finish grommet washer with your screw.
|12-24-2008 11:53 AM|
Sabreman's point about traditional proven methods is valid.. in the long run shortcuts don't pay off. As someone once said, if you don't have time to do it right, how are you going to find time to do it a second time?
We've done this sort of job several times, always using some form of furring strips as a basis for the ceilings. Bruce Bingham's "The Sailor's Sketchbook" shows a variation, glassing some aluminum tubiing in place and screwing the wood to that after drilling/tapping. Lots of work, true, but there for the long haul. The nice thing about the tubing is that once bent it will retain its shape, unlike most wood that will try to go back to straight and can require some innovative clamping techniques while the glue cures. Kerf-cut plywood strips are another option.
It is a very effective and properly nautical look, though, once done properly.
|12-24-2008 11:17 AM|
sailingdog is right. The other techniques being batted around are a losing cause that will probably lead to either a poor job or a real mess. The veneer proposal, while interesting will be especially problematic. If the veneer has an adhesive backing, it will eventually fail due to moisture and flexing. If it doesn't have an adhesive backing, then getting it to stick over all those curves will be nearly impossible even with a vacuum bag.
One of the most comforting things about boat building is that people have been at it for a while and techniques for most things have been worked out over the years. The technique of adhering vertical furring strips to the hull and screwing the teak (or ash) horizontally across them is a valid one that works. Not to impugn and of the ideas posted, but often times skipping the proven steps isn't really a time saver after all, IMHO.
Pleas understand that I'm NOT slamming any ideas, only emphasing that traditional techniques are proven. Ideas are what this community are all about. Keep them coming.
|12-24-2008 10:24 AM|
|AllThumbs||The compound curves found inside boat hulls might make veneer out of the question exept for on flat bulkheads.|
|12-24-2008 07:33 AM|
What about veneer?
I am thinking of doing a teak veneer and simply gluing it on after removing the vinal paper. I don't believe furring strips or insulation would be neccessary w veneer. Is that correct? The ancient vinal paper on there now seems to be holding well and mold nor mildew has been significant. Sorry if I am covering or straying from material already overdone here...
|12-24-2008 07:12 AM|
Welcome to sailnet. You really generally shouldn't revive threads that have been dead for a while. Often, you're better off starting a new thread, and posting a link to the old one, but you can't post links until you have ten posts...
Don't use pine furring strips... unless you plan on encapsulating them completely in epoxy, since they'll keep changing size as the humidity level changes—they also are not very resistant to rot and swell when they get wet...which they will.
Don't screw the furring strips in to the hull, epoxy them—especially if you have a cored hull. Screwing stuff in to fiberglass is a losing bet, since it is far too brittle to really tolerate it at all. Screwing stuff in to a cored hull is plain stupid, unless you like the hull to delaminate.
Put insulation between the furring strips and then put the ceilings on over the insulation. (BTW, FYI, the interior vertical surface inside the hull of a boat is referred to as ceilings, the "ceiling" is actually referred to as overhead.)
Use cedar, white oak or some other rot resistant wood. Some people have had good success using balsa for the furring strips and glassing over the balsa to give it a bit more strength. The furring strips don't have to be very thick btw... 1/2" is usually sufficient. BTW, make sure the screws you use don't go through the furring strips into the fiberglass.
I'd highly recommend you read the POST in my signature to help you get the most out of your time here. It has tips on searching sailnet, writing a good post, etc..
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