|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-13-2004 03:42 AM|
When I worked as a cowboy in Wyoming, I once stayed in an old boarding house that "Calamity Jane" had stayed in.The old timers still told tales about how tough she was,and how she liked a good "chaw" of tobacco.She had probably seen a blacksmith''s "drift" before, but I can''t say that I have.
It''s hard for me to imagine Jesus judging halyards though.I think of him as judging men.
As for Brenda and others,I believe "judge not,so that ye may not be judged."
Good luck with handling the "drift."
|09-12-2004 09:36 PM|
No. Topic drift would be if someone had suggested that only a Dem/Rep supporter would/wouldn''t use spliced halyards, and that thwe whole country was going to hell as a result. Or if Brenda had appeared to advise that Jesus should judge what halyards are best and that "calamityjane" should hasten from the chandler''s and into a church to ask his opinion, that would be drift.
As these boards go, this is pretty well on-topic!
By the way. A drift is also a blacksmith''s tool I use a fair amount. It is also the name of the steel wedge used to split slate along its planes in a quarry.
Now we are drifting.
|09-12-2004 05:24 PM|
A drift is an unthreaded bolt, Jeff. Maybe peened over at the ends like a huge rivet, and used to tie things like keel timbers together, or rudders. Chappelle talks about them all the time. Don''t see what they have to do with halyards, though.
|09-05-2004 05:43 PM|
Next time someone asks me what <em>drift</em> is, I''ll point him to this threadů
|08-29-2004 06:36 PM|
We worried about changing our wire/rope halyards to all line too. Are the sheaves, sized for wire, too tight a turn for the new techno wonderstuff? It appears that wire needs a bigger radius than what''s now available. This is therefore a nonissue.
Are the old sheaves going to chew up your expensive new halyards because of rough edges caused by the steel wire abrading the softer aluminum or composite sheaves? Do they abrade the rope part of your current wire/rope halyards? Get some sandpaper and smooth them down. Two sheets at $0.75 each : $1.50.
Is your new halyard going to jam in the sheave because it''s been designed with a wide part for the line to run in and a narrower slot for the wire to ride on. As Sasha V suggests, get a new line of sufficient diameter to be comfortable to hold, and it won''t slip into the tighter slot.
We changed out our wire/rope spinnaker halyards to all line five seasons ago. The meathooks were getting excessive, and we learned that an all-line halyard would actually stretch LESS than wire. A single strand of some of the stuff available, say 10 to 12mm, is strong enough to lift a 10 ton keelboat. We were concerned about all the above issues, but have not had ANY of the problems described. We''ve examined our halyards carefully at the end of each season, and the only problem seems to be the sun fading the color on the exposed parts.
The best idea might be to simply use all line and examine the halyard and sheave at the end of the season when you pull the mast. If the sheave should be changed, you''ll be able to tell. If not, you''ve saved $20 for a new sheave, and perhaps $150 for a wire/rope splice. Of course, there are the purist restorers who want everything to be "period", but they sail with reel winches for their all-wire main halyards and have an orthopedist on retainer for when the brake is released with the handle in.
|08-25-2004 03:15 AM|
I get the feeling I am arguing as the devil''s advocate here...
If the halyard he has now is double braid that is spliced into cable. Lets say the double-braid is 10mm. You change out the top sheave sot hat you can run 10mm spectra throughout. It gives you something much stronger then you used to have. It is lighter and friendlier to the touch...and it fits all stoppers and drums and ST''s in exactly the same way as the double-braid used to.
he only place you need to replace anything is where the steel cable used to run. And that is just the top sheave.
Really, this IS easy. I have done it, there is nothing to be scared of.
|08-24-2004 06:21 PM|
In case replacing wire to rope halyards by spectra or any other exotic fiber, he will also need to pay attention to the rope diamenter of stoppers if any, as well as drum and self tailing rope allowance.
|08-24-2004 04:32 PM|
You know. I keep hearing this. And I know that sheaves that have run wire (whether diesigned for it or not) will have the groove worn in them that will kill rope halyards.
BUT IT IS REALLY NO BIG DEAL OR EXPENSE TO SWAP THEM OUT.
For about $16 we got four Vesconite sheaves, Margaret went up the mast in the bosuns chair and replaced the old aluminium ones in a little under 15 minutes. Job done.
Having gone over to spectra halyards, I am never looking back. The next project is to go for Spectra 5mm lifelines instead of the cable. Much friendlier.
|08-24-2004 03:55 PM|
sorry, I''m in a hurry,
just check page 8 of this pdf
|08-24-2004 06:25 AM|
Sheaves designed to work with wire to rope halyards may damage all rope halyards. Altering the sheaves or buying new ones adds to the cost.
The method for making the splice is described in detail in ''The Riggers Apprentice'' by Brion Toss. An excellent source of information on many rigging problems.
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|