|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-10-2012 12:01 PM|
Re: Helms 25 Running Rigging Info
Great job. You got a lot done and have a good idea and plan on what is needed to go forward. On the centerboard, I guess you have a few options. I would take it out of the boat to do a proper job. Sand blasting down to shinny metal seems to be the choice of most. I'm told that you need to immediately wipe down with solvent and coat the metal with whatever you decide is best. Apparently, the steel will start to oxidize (rust) immediately, even if you can't see it happen. The previous owner of my boat used Interlux 2000 or 3000 epoxy barrier coat in the late 90's and seems to have held up well. There are now signs of rust in some spots underneath the epoxy that I have to address. At least that is what I assume is happening due to some dark spots appearing through the paint.
As we discussed before, David got his hot dipped galvanized. Sounds like the best solution if you have the facilities close by so you don't have to ship it.
I know there are other 72 and 73 owners on the board. I hope they chime in with more tag info for you.
Keep us informed on your progress. And pictures would be GREAT :-)
|09-10-2012 10:50 AM|
Re: Helms 25 Running Rigging Info
HELLO FROM HOT AND MUGGY FL -
Posted this at Helms Forum BOAT U.S. also. Update on our Helms 25:
Got two aft windows out. Got all cushions out and covers off. No mold! All will have to be re-sewn, but are intact. Considering we bought her with a foot of water in the bilge that had been there long enough to leave multiple waterlines, this is great! Inside the bilge looks clean and intact. Core material is all gone to mush because deck hardware had been removed from cabin top and forward hardware leaked around fastening. Exterior hull appears sound except for small voids that were done when the original mat was laid into the gelcoat without adequate attention to removing bubbles. Fabmat is well-saturated and intact. Fiberglas base under compression post has crunched down about 3/8"-1/2" with resultant outward bulge and cracks about an inch below the post. Previous owners had wedged in galvanized 1" pipe pieces (2) on an angle with 3 squares of 1/16" stainless underneath on the hull which were loose and not doing any useful function. Will beef up the area, perhaps with a double wishbone over the centerboard trunk down to the hull with a cross piece under the compression post base...... Most of the remaining deck hardware shows leakage through the deck - rusty fastening, stained wood backer plates. All will be replaced after core is replaced.
Got the keel down - amazingly good condition considering the age. attachment hole for lift cable was intact and still fairly strong. Some rust flaking along the leading edge, low and the trailing edge as well. But not too bad. Upper section still has hard square shoulders. Cable has a couple of meathooks near the top and winch is pretty rusty but sound. Any ideas what to do after removing rust to minimize salt-water assault on the metal? Paint, grease? Got everything loose out of the boat yesterday, all wood and fasteners from inside, carpet is out. Going to pressure wash, pump out and sponge up as much as possible, then set some exhaust fans to dry out inside. Planning to replace the bulkheads with a stronger material and put a crown of cedar 2" stock at the overhead for better support of the ceiling. Looking to replace the inside hardware for the shrouds that fasten through to the bulkhead out to the outside hull with to stainless chain plates and stainless steel backer plates. We have seen some weather off this west coast in winter that would challenge what we are seeing for standing rigging on this Helms 25. So far, so good. All-in-all, it looks do-able. Would still like to know if the stamped in '25' on the little aluminum plate inside the transom on the starboard side is the hull number. All the rest of the tag was printed on in paint. Anyone else have a 72 with that plate and a stamped number?
|09-06-2010 10:37 AM|
Do you still have boat?
I have a Helms 25 at Benbrook Lake in Fort Worth. It is sailable, but it needs painting, missing hatch covers and pads, etc.
Are you still working on yours? Do you have any specs, etc.? Any tips on painting, etc.?
|03-14-2009 01:51 PM|
I remade my old boards of lexan but I think Plexi would be good as well, it's just that the local glass guy had lexan dropped from a previous job. There are times we're forced to retreat below and having mo' light below is good. I have not yet added latches to the lower for use as stormboard, I will someday.
|03-08-2009 08:51 PM|
d3lphi & Kevin:
I just want to recoup my price on the cockpit hatches. I'll send the set (2) for the cost of shipping and you can add whatever you think they are worth to you.
I want to keep the deck hatches because they fit my boat. I also need to sell the sliding hatch.
|03-08-2009 08:46 PM|
I measured the cockpit hatches. They are 31 1/2" long, 15" wide at one end and 11 3/4" wide at the other end.
|03-06-2009 05:17 PM|
Well I can understand how you are having leakage at the companionway.
I finally changed the hatch boards I had to 1/2" Lexan, 3 pc. ship-lath. I love the change but I made that change to allow light into the cabin as part of my never ending battle against the dark and evil forces of mildew.
Here's what I can find of that modification. I originally made copper to line between the molding where it is laminate and later made it of st.stl. I have better pix somewhere, but can't locate them rat naw.
The bottom was key, no more scuppers drilled into a water trap!
|03-06-2009 12:13 AM|
|Wayne25||Could be the camera angle. I'll measure them tomorrow for you.|
|03-05-2009 03:18 PM|
Originally Posted by Wayne25 View Post
|03-05-2009 02:36 PM|
D3 - I can vouch for Wayne and his prompt shipping. I purchased teak companionway hatch slides from him last year.
As a matter of fact, I might be interested in purchasing the portside lazerette hatch. What's your price Wayne? Any idea on shipping? My lazerette hatch is starting to crack and get pretty flimsy. I thought about building new wooden hatches, but that means more upkeep and I think they don't look as good as the OEM parts.
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