|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|11-22-2011 03:13 AM|
|KStepman||The technique using a second rode, also uses a large ring 8"-12" dia. that attaches to it. The ring goes around your anchor rode. When the ring is lowered, with the second rode attached, it parallels the first and eventually slides over and along the shank, to the crown, creating your trip line.|
|09-14-2009 11:30 AM|
Somewhat related, a few years back I was sailing the B.V.I. with my cousing and 2nd Uncle on his 42' Columbia, We needed to return our scuba gear to Blue Water Divers in Nanny Cay Marina, but there were no slips to pull into for the 15 minutes we needed to be there, even the fuel dock had a waiting list. He decided to drop anchor outside the harbor and run the gear in with the dinghy.
Weather was perfect, swells were 6-8ft with estimated 30-45 second intervals(normal conditions for winter) Sounder reported 20ft of water under the keel, so he dropped ~40ft of chain (i know, short on the scope, but remember we were only supposed to be there for ~20-30min, and not my call).
My cousin and I ran the scoba gear back to the dive shop and left my uncle and his GF on the boat, we returned to the boat about 40 minutes later and found that the swells had increased to about 10-12ft seas, and decreased the interval to 20-30 seconds. (which made for a very exciting and little bit slower then expected ride back in the dinghy!) This around 11am.
When we got to the boat we found the Pulpit ripped to peices, and the chain digging right into the gunwale of the boat and my Uncle looking at the damage rather confused as to how it happened, or what to do. Did I mention that he's not very skilled at handeling his boat, and very stubborn when you try to give him advice or suggestions like let out more anchor chain?
Turns out that he dropped anchor right over a 15-20ft deep shelf, so while the sounder said there was 20 ft of water under the keel, there was closer to 35-40 feet of water under the bow! The swells increasing, plus the effective scope around 1:1 to begin with, it just ripped the bow apart...
After letting out about 50-75 feet more chain, and putting someone at the helm to keep boat from pulling any more on the anchor chain, I took the pony bottle and some snorkeling mask / fins and dove down to try and pull the anchor free but it was now under the shelf and very solidly in place. So I used 2 dock spring lines attached end to end, and tied one end around a half dozen life jackets and then down through the ring where the trip line would go, and then back up to the life jackets to create a 2:1 purchase, and then started pulling line until the all of the life jackets were fully submerged when the swells passed overhead. I then tied the line off and dove back down and gave a few solid tugs on the anchor, but now with an estimated 800lbs of lift from the 6 life jackets above (est 125-150lbs of lift from each when fully submerged) and it came free and floated up and over the shelf.
All that was left was to pull in 125ft of anchor chain by hand, and secure the anchor.
With everything wrapped up around 4pm, we made our way back into the marina and paid for a slip to stay the night and get some sleep... Caught a cab to West Marine the next morning and picked up a wide assortment of bolts, screws and metal flanges, and re-assembled and re-attached the pulpit enough that the anchor could be used again (in fairly calm, protected waters at least) for the remainder of the return trip to Puerto Rico...
|08-31-2009 06:36 PM|
Originally Posted by southshoreS24 View Post
Please consider carefully if an anchor buoy is indeed necessary, but I think there are times when its use use is sensible.
|08-31-2009 04:32 PM|
ok how about this.... take a small length of line, smaller in diameter then the anchor rode but still with sizable breaking strength, most likely not nylon twist. have that line a few feet longer then the depth of the water and run it down the anchor, along the chain, and then along the rode until the end of the short line. secure with zip ties, tape, or some sort of weak seizing. this way it does not float, it does not get in the way, and is just attached to your anchor rode.
when you go to dislodge the anchor and find it to be stuck you will have pulled up all of the rode except the distance from the anchor to the deck of the boat. since your short line is a few feet (enough to reach the deck) longer then the depth of the water you can reach it, pull it to break the seizing and then hopefully dislodge your anchor. the line is hidden because of the scope of line you have out under normal conditions and since it is only needed when you are stuck there is no need to have a float or other line floating around asking to be caught in a prop, rudder, or anything else.
|08-25-2009 11:39 PM|
|zeehag||i love watching folks with trip lines on their anchors---i have never seen one not drag anchor by running over the trip line in the round and round and up and down pattern boats at anchor tend to experience....some even get caught in the prop when the folks try to re anchor....goood luck--is a goood theory but , in practice, i have seen to much foul up involving the trip lines....marker lines as well----boat floats over buoy, boat lifts line with prop and then drags without ability to propel self as prop is fouled by the line that was meant to save it....oops.......|
|08-24-2009 02:58 PM|
Originally Posted by MedSailor View Post
|08-23-2009 10:37 PM|
This looks like a really slick device: Anchor Rescue
I am not a part of this company or associated with Anchor Rescue in any way, except that the guy who invented this is the person I bought my boat from. The last time I sailed by his house in Cushing I had him on board for cocktails and to show him what new modifications I've done to the boat. He told me he was going to invent something to retrieve fouled anchors, and he did. Cool.
|08-03-2009 04:00 AM|
Originally Posted by noelex77 View Post
I also have a 6' length of poly on my anchor head for the same reason. It has a bowline already tied in the end and occasionally when pulling up the anchor, and it's all backwards, it makes it really easy to re-orient it using a boat hook.
To address the original poster's question, I would not recommend an anchor buoy in mud or sand. I would only use one in rock/kelp, near wrecks/cables or generally anywhere that you knew you shouldn't have anchored in the first place.
|07-31-2009 11:50 AM|
The anchor ring system is designed to use the power of your boat to bring the anchor to the surface. In some cases it will help un-stick a stuck anchor by changing the angle of force you are pulling from.
To use one:
When you are ready to go, you put the opening of the ring over the rode, then clip the buoy harness on which effectively closes the ring.
Toss the ring - buoy combo over the side.
Motor out around the buoy
The resistance of the buoy keeps it from just following along so your boat is pulling the line through the ring with the ring as a fulcrum point. the buoy may pull underwater at times, but if you have a large enough buoy for your anchor/chain package, it will pop back to the surface when you stop pulling.
When the anchor gets to the surface, the weight of the chain hanging over the ring keeps the whole thing from slipping back out.
You then pull in the rode and stow it, removing the anchor ring from the rode.
The buoy has to have enough buoyancy to support the weight of the anchor and chain. The larger the buoy, the more resistance, so it will bring up any given anchor more quickly, but the trade off is it requires more space to store it when not in use.
If you don't use chain, or not much, there are other anchor lift products that work similarly, but have a locking mechanism that keeps the line from playing back out when there is slack in it.
|07-09-2009 07:07 PM|
Use of Anchor Ring Retriever
Attn. erps and WheresTheBrakes.
The Anchor Ring Retriever is used to assist in getting the anchor onboard by backing away from an already dislodged anchor, the drag of the large float through the water causes the ring to slip down the anchor rode (nylon etc) to the anchor thus causing the anchor to float at the surface. Allowing the anchor to be retrieved without having to lift it's weight off the sea floor.
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