|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-21-2016 11:06 AM|
Re: bomar hatch repair
Replacing the hatch in total is very easy to do but Bomar hatches are not cheap (we have the ones with reinforcing bars). We now have all of our hatches and ports out and disassembled. They are now being powder-coated. After that we will put in new plastic and then reinstall. Lots of work but once every 35 years or so.
|03-21-2016 02:15 AM|
Re: bomar hatch repair
Same here, I have a cracked aluminum lens which needs to be replaced. I ordered the new hatch and would like to just replace the lens, if it is enough to keep the hatch water tight. These pins I am reading about, sounds like they are reusable? If not, they can be bought at an automotive shop? What about replacing the entire hatch, frame and lens? A big hassle? Difficult?
Thanks for any advice!!!
|12-11-2011 11:16 PM|
bomar hatch repair
I've got opening bomar ports from '89... I've communicated with many other owners of similar sailboats and we can't get replacements of the opening part (lexan plus frame). The hinges are slightly different placement on each port. But we found a company that makes lenses which can adjusted to fit the hinges...
|05-09-2011 05:43 PM|
|NCountry||TAPE before caulking! Dang it, should have seen this 2 weeks ago...|
|05-09-2011 05:40 PM|
Actually I removed the roll pins by pressing them out (not all the way) with a c clamp and a pin as a "drift", rebuilt the top hatch with new lexan and weatherstrip seal and just pressed the old pins back into the top hinge and it's been fine. A little heat/penetraiting fluid certainly helps. Good luck!
|05-09-2011 09:55 AM|
Bomar hatch follow up
I see this thread goes back to 08 but it is right on target with my question. I have a cracked low profile Bomar hatch on my Catalina320 and I have purchased a new one, hopefully exactly the same. I see the comments here about tapping out the hinge roll pins and it seems to me that it would be far simpler to tap out the pins and put the lid from the new hatch right on the old frame. (This sounds like what Argofred was hoping to do.) This would avoid removing the frame, softening and removing the old bedding compound and re-installing the new frame. My question is, assuming that the new hatch is a perfect duplicate, if I tap out the pins.. can I use the same pins to press back in to attach the new lid? OR will they be damaged so I have to buy new pins? I'll have the removed pins from both the old and new hatch.
Also are there any tips like "heat up the hinge with a heat gun to make the pin easier to press/tap out"?
|02-21-2009 08:02 AM|
Originally Posted by argofred View Post
I rebedded the lenses on our AlMag Bomar hatches a few seasons ago and saved the instructions I got from Bomar and GE for their UltraGlaze. Also, if yours are AlMag alloy also, watch for galvanic corrosion with stainless fasteners - use TefGel or something similar.
|02-20-2009 01:47 PM|
|Capnblu||Any time Argo.|
|02-20-2009 09:20 AM|
|02-18-2009 06:01 PM|
|Capnblu||The pin you are referring to is called a "Roll Pin". This style of pin can be removed by tapping it out with a small hammer and drift punch with a slightly smaller diameter. The plastic lens in your hatch is not Lexan, it is Acrylic. The frame itself is made of aluminum, and is quite easy to sand and remove the old paint. When you are ready to repaint, make sure your primer is rated for aluminum. Automotive supply stores usually carry roll pins in various materials and sizes, if you don't feel like spending what Bowmar is asking, or don't want to wait.|
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