|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-11-2009 12:22 PM|
If you're asking if the starter current goes through the meter, no it just goes through the shunt. The shunt has to be the first connection of the negative line directly from the battery post.
I agree with Maine Sail about the monitor, unless you can replace the shunt with a bigger one which would be the easiest and would allow you to keep the display you like. As long as the shunt you get is the same ratio (50mv/500v, etc.) I see no reason it wouldn't work. Maine Sail?
|10-11-2009 12:03 PM|
|motion300||on the victron meter does on run the starter and the thruster through the battery monitor?|
|02-23-2009 03:25 PM|
|02-23-2009 03:15 PM|
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
What can I say... I like clear and easy to read instruments ;-)
|02-23-2009 03:10 PM|
Just put a simple ON-OFF switch in to short out the shunt (effectively bypassing it). OFF is normal. ON shorts out the shunt and allows you to pass whatever amperage the switch/cabling is rated for.
|02-23-2009 12:39 PM|
Sorry for being a contradictory view point but I would personally take a different approach. I would spend the money and buy a true battery monitor like the Victron BVM-600 (LINK). This monitor comes standard with a 500 amp shunt for $194.65. The Xantrex Link Lite is also another option.
By the time you're done buying battery cables, DPDT or DPST, switches or high amp battery switches, and building a by pass for a 100 amp shunt, you could have yourself a beautiful new battery monitor that will give you lots more information and for not a lot more money than a by-pass.
Out with the old and in with the new would be my suggestion. I've yet to meet any boater, though I'm sure they are out there, who's installed a battery monitor and properly calibrated it that regretted it.
|02-23-2009 11:59 AM|
|02-23-2009 11:08 AM|
Is having a dead starting battery so much of an issue that your really want to put a dedicated switch in place to do a bypass?
I'd attack the problem in two ways 1) focus $ and effort on the problem rather than the symptom. 2) Have a plan B. For one thing you won't have to buy as many starting batteries over time.
1) Attack the real problem. Find the source of the drain on the engine battery, using a multi-meter. Then, to help keep the starting battery charged, wire a small solar cell to support the engine battery. A small one will not need a voltage controller. It will maintain the voltage, and will even provide a small bit of charging. Think about a cell that is about 1/2 square foot in size. They sell them for this purpose, and I've seen sailboats with a solar cell built-in for this purpose.
2) For plan B, get a piece of wire that you can use as a jumper cable. Better yet, get a jumper cable. Wherever you go, you can build good karma, jumping your slip-neighbor's batteries or loaning the jumper cables to someone with a dead car battery. You may even get a beer out of it.
[Since for me, a dead engine battery happens before a trip and not usually during, there's no need to rush anything with a large amount of current all at once. I sometimes use a 5 foot long piece of normal speaker wire that I happen to have. It won't help if the engine battery is truly dead, but after waiting awhile, it get's the starter battery up to the point where it can start the diesel. The wire is long enough to not get hot. That is critical with this approach -- if it gets hot, you need a longer wire. If I need something faster, I'll rig a thicker cable for a jump. That's my method and it might not work for everyone. So it's IMHO.]
IMHO, attack the real problem and have a plan B. You'll keep the system's complexity down and have a plan B that you can apply to other uses.
|02-23-2009 09:34 AM|
You could wire a single pole, double throw (SPDT or A/B) switch in the circuit, and use that to take the shunt off line when you need to start using the house bank. The common terminal of the switch would go to the batteries, and one pole would go to the shunt and the other to the shunt bypass.
|02-23-2009 09:30 AM|
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