|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-01-2009 04:46 PM|
|blizzman||Wow! Thanks to everyone for the excellent feedback. Very helpful.|
|03-01-2009 03:41 PM|
Originally Posted by sailingfool View Post
The old 50:1 pre-mix 2-smoke engines are excellent for their intended applications. Ours seemed like it would run forever, and the new owner likes it a lot. They are definitely lighter (size for size), but they are noisy, smokey, and burn fuel like crazy. And they do go through plugs faster, too.
As I mentioned, I replaced our 1974 OMC 15 with a new Nissan 9.8 4-stroke, and couldn't be happier. Much quieter, uses half the fuel, no smoke, no oil to buy and mix, and no annual change of points. Since we have it in the lazarette, we use remote controls, so the electric choke is a big plus. The old 15 did not have that option, so I had to run an additional choke cable for the old motor, and needed both hands to start -- one for the key, and one for the choke. Of course, this is not apples to apples -- heck, it's not even apples to broccoli. They are completely different design generations, as well as different combustion technologies.
Thanks to the Solas high-thrust prop, we have better thrust with the 9.8 than the 15 ever had... and it BACKS UP now. That's something the old setup just did not do well. Because of the better thrust, we actually saved weight, by going down one motor family size. The new 8/9.8 family is lighter than the old 9.9/15 family.
Each setup is different. In our particular case, on this particular boat, the 4-stroke was the way to go. I like the simplicity and weight of the 2-smokes. I have one on the dinghy, and intend to keep it "forever". If our sailboat aux was out on a bracket, the 4-stroke would lose many of the advantages it has in the lazarette...
|03-01-2009 03:37 PM|
I also sail a P26 (1975) and have a 1984 Evinrude 20" shaft.
It clears the rudder by an inch or so.
If you go lower horsepower, I wouldn't go any lower than 8. Perhaps a 8hp 4 stroke would be a good option
|03-01-2009 02:41 PM|
I sail a '76 P26 with a Johnson 9.9 hp long shaft (20"). With the motor straight up - no tilt - the skeg will impede the rudder slightly if I am running at full throttle. If I adjust the tilt slightly (a peg or two), or do not run wide open, I have no problem. I definitely would not go with a smaller (less hp) motor.
Even with the long shaft the bottom of the motor comes out of the water in steep chop; this can be minimized by "going with the chop" (not quite sure how else to say that).
|03-01-2009 02:39 PM|
Originally Posted by pvanv1 View Post
All given, I'd say look hard for a used 2 cycle 8HP rather than pay the cost and live with the weight of a new 9.9.
|03-01-2009 02:07 PM|
I'd borrow a motor, and hang it on the boat, and see how well it clears. Anything else is speculation. Easy enough to do out of the water.
Our boat has the OB in the lazarette. Originally was a short shaft. That made it possible to be tilted out of the water when racing. I have since gone with a long shaft 9.8 Nissan, and don't tilt. Definitely stays in the water better in the long swells of Lake Ontario. Don't notice much increased drag, though I'm sure it's there.
Regarding 6 hp vs 9.9, etc... All new small OB's in the US will be 4-strokers. In the Tohatsu/Nissan/Mercury lineup, the 4/5/6 family is a one-cylinder. The 8/9.8 family is a 2-cylinder, and available as electric start if desired. At idle, the 2-cylinder units are much smoother. As a Tohatsu dealer/mechanic, I would opt for the 8 or 9.8 if buying a new 4-stroke. Remember that Tohatsu makes the Tohatsu, Nissan, and Mercury (30 hp and under) OB's. Only difference is brand recognition and price. Oh, yeah, our HR28 could use a bigger motor than the 9.8, but the next family up is the 15, which weighs 30 pounds more, and is Huge. The 9.8 is adequate, don't get me wrong, but I have seldom seen a sailboat with too much aux power when a storm is on.
|03-01-2009 01:42 PM|
|sailingfool||I would think 9.9HP a lot more engine that the P26 would need, I'd think a 6HP all that is needed, the extra 4 horse would represent only money spent for no usability. Get the long shaft IF it will in fact fit.|
|03-01-2009 12:37 PM|
Its approx 34" from where the outboard sits on the transom to the bottom of the skeg. (on a 6hp johnson sailmaster longshaft)
I just built a "test tank" to run my outboard in and needed this measurement to make sure it would fit without touching the bottom.
A short shaft would probably be ur best bet.
|03-01-2009 12:24 PM|
Outboard shaft length
Outboard shaft length is measured from the point inside the clamp where the transom would sit, to the bottom of the cavitation plate. A long shaft may have two plates, so it is naturally the lower of these. The rest of the lower leg, prop, etc. are not included in this measurement, which could run 8" to 10" depending on the specific motor. Your boat has a large cutout in the transom as a motor mount, does it not? If so, remember that your entire motor sits as much as a foot closer the actual hull than it would if it was on a lifting type bracket. This means that it is much less likely to ever come out of the water in rough seas than one on a bracket.
I know that there are those who say that you absolutely, positively must have a long shaft motor on any sailboat. I have actual real life experience that says otherwise. Way back when I had a Cat 22 I had a LS on a bracket off the transom, and even then it would indeed come out of the water in heading into big swells. Since then I have also owned 2 other boats that had transom cutouts and have used a variety of short shaft motors with absolutely zero problems in over 15 years and many, many miles of all sorts of waves, chop, swell and headwinds. Another benefit is that the leg won't drag in the water when sailing fast with the motor tilted up, as it surely will with your mounting point and a long shaft.
My advice would be a short shaft, but if you want a longshaft, find one and actually measure it carefully first.
|03-01-2009 09:59 AM|
Thanks for the welcome, Deadeye.
That's a possibility, although there's not much room to shift the engine left or right within the mouting area. I'll have to take a look - a couple of inches might make a big difference.
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