|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-07-2009 03:38 PM|
Here at Hartge's what we use - if it's varnish and not cetol - is a piece of plexi-glass which we've cut to a sharp edge. Many times we can chisel the varnish off of the gel coat. Of course, if the gel-coat is chalky, it is somewhat porous and the varnish will absorb into it somewhat. Sometimes, with a lot of patience, you can use an alcohol soaked rag - not the rum you're sipping - denatured alcohol - and hold it over the stains - sometimes this will soften the varnish - if it hasn't been down there for too many years. Then you can scrape it up with the plexiglass. The plexiglass if you're gentle, shouldn't scratch the gelcoat because the gelcoat is harder than the plexi.
This is why we always tape out everything - even when we're just sanding. When you're sanding, even by hand, you inevitably sand the gelcoat - it opens the surface and then dirt will get in and discolor.
BTW - you mentioned waxing the deck before applying cetol to the wood. Clean the wood well with Comet or Ajax before starting on your cetol job.
I wouldn't bother with the clear gloss coat - the new natural teak cetol works great if you just put down three coats - nice color and almost a gloss look to it. If you put the clear on, next year you'll have to sand hard before putting on another coat. Without the clear gloss, you can just tape, scuff it out with a 3m Scotchbright pad, clean up with alcohol and put down another coat of Cetol.
Good luck - and remember to take her out sailing once in awhile - unforttunately we seem to work on our boats more than we sail them.
|06-07-2009 02:53 PM|
I just went to a couple of stores and ya they didn't have them. Mail order time!
What is the best way to remove old drips or smears of varnish on the non skid and on the sides of the cockpit. Didn't try anything yet don't want to disoulve the gel-coat
|06-07-2009 08:06 AM|
Follow Maine Sail's directions for restoring the hull... He's just written newer directions based on Presta products, but you probably won't have those locally.
Originally Posted by dryclean View Post
|06-07-2009 07:25 AM|
|dryclean||Yea top down is what I figured. I washed down the deck and hull and It looks very good. I'm going to buff / wax the deck today and try to get the hull done too. Then start on the teak. I want to cetol it suing the natural with the gloss on top. We alreday did the inside. For a 32 year old boat I must say I'm very happy with it's condition it has held up well|
|06-06-2009 01:24 PM|
depending on what you use on the teak to clean and restore...and how careful you are about the product application.. SOme will stain badly any fiberglass...others not so much. I always start at the top and work down, masking, shrouding and taping off any finish I don't want this stuff on. Clean up any spills or drips sooner than later....once that is done then go with glass polish or compound. Unless you are a pro, stay away from electric/air buffers as they will eat/burn through finish very quickly.
All the best. Enjoy your Sabre, my 38 was one of the best boats I ever owned.
|06-06-2009 07:54 AM|
Where should I start
I recently bought a 1977 Sabre 28 in very good condition. The deck is a little chalky the hull isn't to bad just maybe a wash waxing and glaze but the teak 1/2 was done like in the cockpit the other 1/2 like the rails has maybe never been done and I want to varnish it all. I've already cleaned the insides. My question is do I start with the decks cleaning and maybe rub out and waxing then the hull then do the teak last that was my thoughts