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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-14-2009 09:21 PM
boofus For me the 1.5 hour drive really started to wear on me. I re-powered, Bought the boat with the motor basically just sitting there, had to do the shaft stringers fuel lines etc etc...... did it all myself but found the details to be a nightmare. When you aren't at the boat everyday and some time passes things just slip your mind and you find yourself sitting there ready to finish up the exhaust hoses and you're short of 2 hose clamps so you move on to wiring and then its the number 8 ring terminals your short of.... on and on. Take everything with you every time you go or else that will be the first thing you need that day. The most simple problems are quickly magnified. Definately factor the drive time in and then multiply by at least 2, because it will get old. I am just going through sea trails now and working the bugs out, because there are always bugs. already had to have sea tow come out once. Good luck if you decide to go for it.......
but at least I saved the thousands it would have cost to have the yard do it..... then again I wouldn't have bought the boat.......... maybe I shouldn't have bought the boat,
hmmmm hindsight............
06-14-2009 08:09 PM
billangiep I'm not sure what a RWC 28hp. is? (raw water cooled?)
A buddy just bought a new Yanmar 30 for 5500.00 to replace his Atomic four. Add new shaft, prop, fuel tank, muffler and hoses ext. I'd bet he's got near seven in it and we did the work.
06-14-2009 07:50 PM
sailingfool Buying aboat that needs a new enginecan be agood situation if the boat is priced to reflect the cost of repowering. The problem can be that the actual cost can be a lot more than expected. For example it cost about $6000 for the engine rebuild of a Westerbeke 35hp diesel. Pulling the engine, re-installed, added another $5000. While the engine is out is also the time to do new hoses, alternator, cooling, etc. geting the engine project to about $13,000. If you find anything else like fuel tank, steering etc. that may need work, this is the time to do it, and before you know it the engine rebuild has run over $20,000.
06-14-2009 07:48 PM
blowinstink Bill-
Replacing a RWC 28hp with a Kubota based powerplant. Based on preliminary conversations with mechanics, it probably won't need stringer work, but will certainly need the mounts moved to support the new footprint and the shaft will need replacing as well as the prop. I've received ballpark estimates that sound okay, but nothing that'd I'd call a GFE that I could sign off on as a work order.
06-14-2009 07:24 PM
billangiep It would help if we new what you were re-powering , what model engine is now installed and what you'd be replacing it with? Could you get away with a rebuild?
My latest re-power cost me around $600.00 (2.5 Suzuki) on my 17' daysailor.
My old 27 foot Watkins with a 2GM cost me around $2500.00 for a rebuild.
06-14-2009 06:17 PM
erps We bought our current boat knowing that we would be re-powering it before we leave. I've heard some horror stories that the labor for installation can easily be as much as you paid for the motor. I'm going to wait until we're close to the shove off date when we'll be retired and can do the work ourselves. I'm made some preliminary inquiries with Beta Marine and it looks like they can provide computer graphic drawings of your current motor overlapped on their replacement model so you can get an idea how well their replacement motor will fit. That's encouraging for me. If you're going to have someone else do all the work, I would get some sort of a quote on what it will cost you before making an offer on the boat. It could easily cost you $20K on a 40 hp diesel installation.
06-14-2009 05:30 PM
Buying a boat that needs a repower - nuts???

Okay, I'll keep this short and sweet:

Would you consider buying a boat that needs a repower? What if it were more than a few hours drive from you?

If you're inclined to consider the prospect . . .

What are the risks in the repower process and how do you manage them? For instance: what parts of the job require a present owner / supervisor (or a blood relative mechanic)? How long does the process generally run from haul to splash? When a repower goes wrong -- what are common problems? If you had your choice of mechanics on the east coast to do an economical, timely, quality job . . . who would you recommend (feel free to PM either recs or pans on that last point).


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