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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > mast shims fell out Tartan 30
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Thread: mast shims fell out Tartan 30 Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-29-2009 12:41 PM
SVCarolena I don't think that is the case, at least not on our boat. There is quite a bit of clearance between the mast and deck, so even if things were off by a bit, there would still be room for shims. I think our problem is that the last time the mast was pulled it wasn't centered correctly when reinstalled.
07-29-2009 01:45 AM
sww914 Not trying to hijack the thread, but could some of the uneven mast positions in the decks be from deck/hull misalignment at the factory? I can't imagine every deck is attached to the hull with tolerances of less than maybe 1/8".
I'm just speculating, but I've seen a brand new Cadillac with 3/4" of shims between the fender and the cowl because the chassis wasn't straight and it seems that it would be easier to build a 20' long car precisely than a 30' boat.
07-28-2009 01:59 PM
SVCarolena Not to hijack the thread, but we have a similar issue on Carolena, our Pearson 303. It sounds like ramminjammin's mast is no longer centered in the partners. Our mast is in much the same situation - wedges fell out of the aft side and the mast is up against the partners on the fore side. Can the mast be re-centered before putting in new wedges or spartite by loosening the forestay and tightening the backstay? We've never had the mast pulled - it was like this when we bought the boat. Looking up the mast, it is otherwise alligned (you would never know the problem unless looking under the mast boot or up through the deck from the saloon). The keel step does seem to have slots where the bolts could be loosened and the step moved fore or aft a bit, but I assume that would require a crane lifting the mast enough to take the weight off the step (not really an option anywhere near us).

Knotty - good point on the friction point between the mast and deck. I'm going to make it a point to inspect that area once the mast is back in center.
07-28-2009 11:34 AM
Sailormann Spartite

Spartite is a great product. Using it eliminates the chance of pressure points developing, as force is dispersed around the mast step cavity rather than concentrated on one or two wedges. It has the added benefit of greatly reducing water ingress.
07-28-2009 11:13 AM
ramminjammin
thanks for the great info

I just refurbished the hydraulic backstay tensioner that will tension the backstay between 1800 to 2400 lbs.
Is there some sort of accomodation i can make for this when wedging in the mast ? I note that the rear wedge ,on the stern side of the mast is crushed , and the front one , to the bow side of the mast was missing.
thanks for any advise
07-25-2009 11:17 AM
knothead
Quote:
Originally Posted by camaraderie View Post
Knotty...the rope method wont work on this boat...but it worked like a CHARM on two of mine and has the advantages of equal pressure with a bit of give all around the mast...i.e. no hard spots...and it is a great way to waterproof the partners at very low cost.
BTW...this was taught to me by a rigging professional who found it being done in the Caribe and adopted it.
I've seen it done, and have even tried it. But it can be messy and depending on the line diameter and construction, results can be mixed. It's kind of like caulking a plank. As long a the gap around the mast is pretty constant, it would probably work alright. Usually though, there is quite a variation between the sides and the front and back.

The main point though is that there must be something there.
I remember one spar that was cut clean through nearly 50% of the circumference of the mast where it had been working against the fiberglass deck.
I don't know where this idea that the wedges are not needed once the rigging is set up came from. But it's not accurate at all.
07-24-2009 10:03 PM
camaraderie Knotty...the rope method wont work on this boat...but it worked like a CHARM on two of mine and has the advantages of equal pressure with a bit of give all around the mast...i.e. no hard spots...and it is a great way to waterproof the partners at very low cost.
BTW...this was taught to me by a rigging professional who found it being done in the Caribe and adopted it.
07-24-2009 05:27 PM
CalebD Knothead, who replied above DwayneSpeer, is a professional rigger.
07-24-2009 04:44 PM
DwayneSpeer
Not an expert

I'm certainly not an expert but I've read several places that the wedges are just a means of supporting the mast in an upright position until the stays are attached and tightened properly. That being the case you could take them all out once the mast is stepped properly. I'd ask a professional rigger for the correct answer.
07-24-2009 11:06 AM
ramminjammin thanks

is eight around the right number , seems the more the contact patch the better support , but maybe there is supposed to be some room for "free play " ?

also there was not a wedge on the leading edge towards the bow, and the wedge at the trailing edge , towards the stern, is somewhat crushed .
The previous owner had a hydraulic backstay that was tensioned to 2400 lbs for racing( I am in the process of rebuilding the hydraulic hand pump), and wondering if tensioning the backstay had crushed the wedge ? Is there supposed to be a wedge in the forward edge position ?

thanks
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