|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-27-2009 11:56 PM|
|Capnblu||Go to any pawn shop, take your pick of grinders. Or go to a swap meet, or garage sale. buy the zip blade from any auto parts store.|
|08-27-2009 07:41 PM|
In Canada you can purchase a reasonable angle grinder on sale for 19.99.
Should be cheaper in California at a tool discounter.
|08-27-2009 07:16 PM|
|Faster||a rat-tail file and a few hours....|
|08-27-2009 07:12 PM|
|Mandofish||I like the idea of manufacturing a drain slot in the stanchion base...but I don't own a grinder. Any way to do this without big expensive tools?|
|08-27-2009 07:09 PM|
|Capnblu||Grind a slot on the underside of the stanchion with a cut off wheel on your angle grinder. Use an appropriate size dowel, or stick to keep passage open when rebedding the base, then remove.|
|08-27-2009 10:57 AM|
On three of my most recent boats the stanchion bases had a groove running from the center to the lowest edge that lets water drain. For installation I lightly waxed a straw (used johnsons paste wax, and a straw from a can of PB-blaster) and laid it in the groove before fastening the base down, after the sealant cured I pulled the straw out so it keeps the drain hole clear.
Mine are cast bronze and have the groove cast in, if yours are pressed stainless there -may- be enough thickness to file a groove in them for drainage.
When I rebedded them there was just a very light amount of dust under them so I don't believe clogging would be an issue.
|08-26-2009 06:41 PM|
|brak||interesting point. depends, perhaps, on a type of stanchion base. On my boat stanchion bases are triangular metal plates with tube welded on. Stanchion inserts into that tube. Any water that enters the base will stay in this tube like a cup and does not come in contact with the deck. Perhaps you could do something like that on your boat - seal the actual base rather than a stanchion? Depends on a type and design of the base of course.|
|08-26-2009 06:26 PM|
|Mandofish||The bases have been removed already and yes, there was considerable core rot around the old holes, which I removed and then filled with epoxy. (following the excellent recommendations at Maine Sailing's Photo Galleries at pbase.com. Yes, you are right, I believe there probably will not be rot issues again, and leak issues for quite some time again, but the idea of water pooling in the stanchion base with no outlet just seems like I'm asking for sealant failure and leakage sooner rather than later (five vs ten years? Ten vs. twenty?). Perhaps I'm over concerned?|
|08-26-2009 06:16 PM|
Mando (or is it Fish?)
If your stanchion "holes" have water in them then you should check for rot.
If it were me and I was worried about this I would remove the stanchion bases (and while removed take care of the problem above). Then I would over drill the stanchion holes. If the shavings (tailings?) coming out were reasonably dry and solid then great! Just fill with thickened epoxy, redrill the holes and remount your stanchion base using a high quality sealant. this way if it does leak again in future your deck core will be safe.
|08-26-2009 05:40 PM|
You can plug the base of the stanchion with thickened epoxy or similar and drill a drain hole at the top of the epoxy plug. A 3/16" drain is all you need and if the epoxy plug is right below the drain water won't build up. But if any foreign material gets in it would be tough to remove.
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