|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-20-2010 05:20 PM|
Just my two cents -Years ago I decided that I am too fat-tall-old to do the locker hatch access thing.I installed a Beckson access port in the cockpit sole that allows me to reach the nuts on the bolts holding the sole down.Granted my boat is tiller steered allowing the entire sole to be removed and with it out I have fantastic access to the engine,trans,shaft,exhaust etc.Actually I installed two ports one for the 4 front bolts and one for the rear 4 bolts.With clear plastic inserts they provide a lot of light to the engine space.
Dianne and Chuck Burke S/V NiftyNickers C37 #139
|01-19-2010 01:58 PM|
Side hatch follow up
I finally got around to installing a hatch in the side of the quarter berth for access to the engine compartment.
Pictures attached (hopefully).
Discoverer PSC37 #135
|09-14-2009 03:47 PM|
Hi gang, i'm also over 55 yrears and pushing 2oo lbs BUT Lively lady has a tiller and no problem behind engine via the cockpit opening. simple, airy and loads of room despite the water heater to starboard.
Cheers, Bill S/V LL , PSC 37 # 231
|09-13-2009 07:42 PM|
I do have a tiller - these both seem to be really good approaches!
Lemme get Jnewcomer's approach right - you fastened the bolts to the flange sandwiched between 2 nuts, and they go through holes in the cover.
The knurled bronze thumb nuts - are these recessed into the hatch? Seems they would hurt feet if they protruded above the sole. Or do I have this wrong?
|09-13-2009 01:15 AM|
With a tiller steered boat being able to remove the whole cockpit floor makes working on the engine almost pleasant, certainly less painful. About the 8 bolts: I bought the 3/8-16 knurled bronze thumb nuts from PSC and mounted 8 bronze bolts upside down with a nut each side of the mounting flange. I relieved the underside of the cockpit floor so the nuts wouldn't keep the floor from sitting flush. I put a large rubber washer and bronze washer under each thumb nut when securing the floor. There is also a rubber gasket between the floor and the flange to keep water out of the engine compartment.
For those with wheels I have seen modified cockpit floors on older C37's that have just the forward half removeable. You would use just 4 of the thumb nuts in this case. I thought the factory started doing this as standard a while ago. I think this plus the quarter berth access door would give good access on wheel steered boats.
We converted from wheel to tiller for a variety of reasons about 10 years ago. Ease of access to the engine, transmission, shaft and steering stuffing boxes was certainly a big factor.
s/v Pelagic C37 #22
|09-12-2009 02:42 PM|
Those of us with tiller-steered C37's dont have any problem with engine or stuffing box problems as our cockpit sole is completely removable.The bolts did initially give me some problems as I am older and probably heavier than most of you young kids.I cut two 6" holes in the sole and installed removable inspection plates thru which I can insert my arm with a rachet wrench to remove the nuts and washers holding the sole.One of the inspection plates has a clear plastic insert allowing light into the engine compartment with the sole in place,an extra nice feature.
Good luck, Dianne and Chuck Burke S/V NiftyNickers C37 #139
|09-09-2009 07:46 PM|
Originally Posted by Kailani33 View Post
|09-09-2009 07:21 PM|
Opening in quarterberth size
I went out to Podjo this afternoon after work and got some measurements. The opening is 15.5 inches wide and 9.5 inches tall. It starts 16 inches from the entrance bulkhead and ends 33 inches from the back of the quarterberth. The top of the opening is 16.75 inches down from the headliner and 1.5 inches up from the plywood bunk. If you can make the opening a few inches wider, that would help.
Although the access hole is convenient for quick looks and fixes, I sill prefer to jump into the cockpit locker for better access and control with tools. I have spend days in there pulling the coupling off of the drive shaft and cutting the shaft by a half an inch to making enough clearance for a max-prop. I think a couple of yoga classes prior to working on the drive train would make it seem easier....lol.
I can take some pictures if you need them. Let me know.
|09-09-2009 11:30 AM|
lights and a wet bilge
Originally Posted by JDGreenlee View Post
The mechanic at my boatyard raved about his DeWalt 4.4 Volt / 12 Volt Fluorescent Area Light. It obviously gets rid of the "wet light" problem but he especially liked the lack of shadows which always seem to fall just where you don't want them....
Unfortunately they cost about $35.00 PLUS $60.00 for the battery! I think I'll stick with the drop lights and try hard not to drop too many into the bilge!
|09-09-2009 08:21 AM|
It's those extra 3.5"!
Interesting idea on the side hatch (our hot water tank is on the starboard side - so not an issue) I wonder if the boat is noisier as a result - or was insulation used on the hatch? (My problem would be getting to the hatch - I store everything in the quarterberth!)
As to loosing things in the bilge - tricky indeed. It was great when I changed out the gearbox this past weekend - I recovered all sorts of bits and bobs that must have been there for years!
There is a good spot for the tools when under the cockpit - I put them on the shelf in my main cockpit locker - I can't quite see them from the engine, but they are convenient to access and feel out by hand. I basically bring the entire toolkit and lay it there - because getting in and out of the engine room is such a pain.
(My lights in the engine room are DC...)
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