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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Electrical Systems > Link 20 rewiring
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Thread: Link 20 rewiring Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-19-2009 05:02 PM
Omatako Looks like you guys have this covered so I'll just stand by.
09-18-2009 05:31 PM
mitiempo And from the other side of the shunt one wire to battery bank negative. No other wires to the battery bank negative.
Brian
09-18-2009 05:03 PM
SteveInMD I'm not exactly sure what you are asking at this point, but...If you are getting sparking when trying to make a connection there is a load on the system. Make sure everything is off including the shore power and inverter.

All grounds from the various should go to a heavy gauge bus bar. Then just one cable to the shunt.
09-18-2009 04:53 PM
chris_gee Yes I know I meant both black cables though only one goes to the shunt.
09-18-2009 04:47 AM
mitiempo Chris
Bank one has only one negative terminal - regardless of how many batteries in the bank.
Brian
09-18-2009 04:38 AM
mitiempo Chris
What do you mean by "I haven't been game to complete hooking up the negatives of bank one"? Only one negative wire goes to each battery bank. See below.
Brian
09-18-2009 04:12 AM
chris_gee Ok I have narrowed it down to a 13 odd v between the negative shunt for the bank 1 and the neg terminal for battery 1 the link that sparks when I try to connect it so I haven't. And the same for that first to the second battery of bank 1.
I havent been game to complete hooking up the negatives of bank one. Maybe it is some residual through the link 20 with a voltage but low current. There isnt really anything showing up on the link maybe because it needs bank one circuit completed. I have programmed it before so that isnt a problem. The yellow light of the pathmaker battery combiner which I didn't touch is on but I haven't read up on that yet well I have in the past but not lately.
I did find one fault causing the voltage between the two neg terminals of bank one so the main problem now seems to be that that negative terminal on the shunt shows a voltage. I rolled my eyes in despair and sought prof help but was told the week after next (maybe on past experience). Fish to be caught.
I have a couple of things to try like only connecting one battery and disconnecting the link by removing the fuses but really the fundamentals of electricity were a long time ago and then theoretical, I dont know if diodes were even invented then. I don't mind payng professionals but paying an apprentice tradesman's rates to get it wrong even if they were available sticks in the craw a bit.
09-18-2009 03:15 AM
mitiempo All Xantrex manuals are on the web and easy to find. Just googled Xantrex Link 20 and it's the top of the list. Here's the link to the pdf. http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/76/docserve.aspx
Brian
09-18-2009 02:22 AM
Omatako Chris

I think that getting 13.8 volts between the dosconnected neg cable and the shunt is probably correct. Remember that one of the functions that the Link measures is voltage and the connection between the neg and the shunt completes that circuit.

That also may be the reason you're getting a spark when you connect. If the Link is connected right it will be connected irrespective of the main switches and stuff being turned off.

The one thing you haven't mentioned yet is what is happening on the display. What lights are on when everything is connected and are you getting any sensible readings when you push the buttons? Also, has the thing been properly calibrated? Meaning is the Link expecting to see the extent of the battery bank that you're showing it? There is a setup routine outlined in the manual that is a little iffy but it works if you follow it step by step.

I'm about to leave for my boat. I'll bring the manual back and we can have a more meaningful look at it.

Enjoy your weekend.
09-17-2009 10:35 AM
chris_gee Thanks. I have the manual and the small wires seem ok.
My concern was the sparking when connecting the neg lead from the battery one shunt to the negative on the battery, and that there was a 13.2 voltage from that lead tested against the negative on the second battery of that bank. That seems to suggest that one of the smaller ground negative connections is in fact live and I need to try and isolate which one and why. At the moment everything is switched off so that reduces the chance of a short circuit.
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