|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|11-09-2009 06:05 PM|
Good first boat
I have a 1970 P-26, hull #196. I purchased it in August 2008 and have really enjoyed it. Next Spring it will have a new Main and Gennie (Doyle Sailmakers) and I am going to refair the keel and fix the rot in the cockpit sole
I knew something was up, but was not happy to see the extent of the rot. Take a hammer and tap around the rudder post. Also look below in the area under the cockpit lockers. Check on the two glassed in pieces that run parallel to the keel. They might need reglassing IF they are still there. Dan Pfeiffer's website is great.
|10-29-2009 05:37 PM|
New rudders can be ordered, but are around the $1300.00 mark.
My 1975 had a worn shaft, about .020. Even with new bushings it still had slop.
On Dan Pheiffer's site there are directions on building up the runner shaft with west system epoxy and grafite powder. Did that three yrs. ago and it has been good since.
Not a fancy boat by any means, but sails great.
|10-29-2009 03:30 PM|
Can you find rudders to replace a worn out one?
I have found few boats with 6'4" headroom so I can stand up straight, this makes me wonder if almost enough headroom is worse than no headroom.
I have a cabin cruiser with 6'4"+- headroom and still have to bend my head down when the boat rolls, I find it rather annoying and keep wishing it had 7' headroom.
I have found few boats 30' and under that have 6'4" headroom and these boats
are located on the East or West coast and would require a pricey refit, plus shipping.
I would like to have a blue water boat but the price tag and location rules them out.
|10-29-2009 10:35 AM|
Both models were sold at the same time. Same hull and rig, different deck. The OD version has a bigger cockpit but less accomodations below. I suspect less headroom below. Could be problem since you are 6"3". I am 5'8" and couldn't stand in the regular version without touching the headliner with the top of my head.
Best way to check the rudder bearings is to try to move the bottom of the rudder back and forth. Should be little or no movement. Hard to do that without hauling or taking a swim. If you go for a sail, you would feel the rudder moving and banging if there was excessive play. Replacing the bearings is a pretty easy job. Wear in the rudder shaft at the bearings is bigger deal. If severe, would require rudder replacment.
|10-28-2009 05:20 PM|
It may be the reg model, I haven't had a chance to look it over yet, I was
going by the year.
Its has been use in club races for a few years.
Is there away of checking the rudder bearing without a haul out? (first look)
Head room might be a problem also, I'm 6'3", I will be single handing also.
Thanks for the info on the extra long shaft outboard, I will put it on the pos/neg. list.
|10-28-2009 04:19 PM|
|JimsCAL||Owned a "regular" P26 for 10 years. My wife and I did pretty well in the club races and cruised her all over Long Island Sound and out to Block Island, Newport and Martha's Vineyard. Overall construction is a bit better than many of the other similar sized boats of the era. Hull is solid and overbuilt by today's standards. Deck is cored so wet core is common issue. Rudder is a weak area with rudder bearings needing replacement fairly regularly and wear of the rudder shaft at the bearings can be an issue. Loads are high because of the unbalanced rudder shape. Keel is cast iron, so a poorly maintained one can mean lots of hours stripping, sealing and and fairing. A long shaft (20 inch) or extra long shaft (25 inch) engine is essential to avoid having the prop out of the water more than it's in.|
|10-28-2009 01:04 PM|
everything you want or need to know about P26s can be found on Dan Pfeiffer's excellent web site - Pyxis - Pearson 26 and Pearson 26
They are great boats, ours isn't a OD but at times we wish we had the OD's larger cockpit.
|10-27-2009 07:49 PM|
pearson 26 OD
Any thought on the Pearson 26 OD.
I'm looking into getting a starter sailboat,(limited funds) no plans on sailing to far off islands just weekend sailing and relaxing at the marina.
I might need to sail the boat to Tampa in a year or so (moving), i would use the
ICW, maybe a Key west run after that.
My main question is how these boats sail and how well they were made compared to their counterparts.
Do they have any issues with chain plates or other hard wear problems?
I did look into the rudder post, keel bolts and deck core problems.
I have worked with fiberglass, epoxy, and can make almost anything out of wood, even built
a 16' plywood sailboat, sails and all.
thanks for your help.