|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|02-14-2010 10:07 PM|
There's more engineering involved in the construction of these things than you may first think. Take a look at where the boards mate - note that they are designed to shed water. In a 3-board set-up, the middle board is taller. This 'board' on my boat is actually 2 pieces of teak held together with glue and mechanically via 2 backing boards screwed on the cabin-side. This keeps the section from warping. Also note the endgrain of any section that requires you to use two or more boards (like to house the louvers for example). The end-grains are purposely opposed, again, to discourage warping.
I had a shop custome re-make mine and have long-since lost the contact information, but I do recall I had to give them very detailed milling instructions. They also used a pre-fab louvered section which kept their price down.
|02-14-2010 02:18 PM|
|poopdeckpappy||A lot of marine supply stores have the materials to make louvered doors, boards, etc,etc. the frames will already have the louver slots milled in, all you have to do is cut & assemble to size you need, then mill to fit companion way track and each other|
|02-14-2010 12:48 PM|
Fake louvers can be made with a table saw and plunge router.
make saw tooth cuts with two passes on the table saw, one at 90, one at 45, so they meet close to the other side. (you want to end up with half an "M" not a "V" cut) Don't cut all the way through as you need it to stay together.
cut off two 1" or so strips (width as desired) from the sides. then use the router to open up the bases of the cuts from the back side, leaving an inch or so on each side uncut.(to keep everything together) if your angles and measurements are right, you can then flip the 1" offcuts and glue them on to make a finished edge on the saw cut side which will be the outside.
If you don't have a plunge router, you can finish cutting the louvers with a table saw by making a double pass at the top (bottom) of the V. Or even repeat the whole saw tooth cut pattern on the back, which will provide a more realistic lover look. The router leaves the back side flat with slots (stronger louvers, but a slotted, not louvered look from the back)
Can be easily made to fit angled sides the same way, just make the flipped parts wider so you can cut the whole thing to shape.
|02-14-2010 09:29 AM|
|willracin||I love these doors but can't really afford to buy them Any one ever made them? Any instructions?|
|02-21-2006 10:41 AM|
|Neicy||Take a look at these web pages for companionway entry ideas. www.zarcor.com and www.cruisingconcepts.com. I went with zarcor to replace mine.|
|02-15-2006 10:57 PM|
Did you ever consider making up doors.
If you do make them you will find out that it is one of the best improvements you can make for live-a-board comfort.
|02-12-2006 10:39 AM|
You might want to consider having Plexiglas (acrylic) companionway board(s) made up for your boat. Any plastics shop can supply the material, do beveled cuts, cut in louvers if you want them, and the cost will probably be less than teak. No maintenance and lots of light into the cabin on dark/rainy/cold days. If visual privacy is an issue (berthed stern-to at the dock) consider using a small curtain with some velcro tabs.
|02-12-2006 08:59 AM|
Defender has a black (other colors too, I think) plastic louver insert for a few bucks that is easy to cut into a hatchboard. I did one last year.
|02-01-2006 10:07 PM|
I missed louvered which makes the DIY a lot harder.
|02-01-2006 10:05 PM|
Contact D&R and ask them for the dimensions for the boards they carry and then make the comparison.
This would not be a difficult DIY project. Bu some teak and have at it.
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