|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|11-17-2009 05:22 PM|
This is great info!!! Thanks so much guys. I've been in touch with both John Justin and Berry Marine Tanks. Have one quote for $450.00 and waiting on the second. The Rhino surface preperation is an excellent idea. Gonna look hard at the contact points between the keel bolts and the tank.
This forum is so darned handy for things like this.
S/V Charity Rose
|11-16-2009 08:22 AM|
I felt that my tank was leaking too, so last year I pulled it out and had it tested twice. I took it to a local metal fab shop for a pressure test and again I tested it myself at home with 5 psi for 24 hours and found no leaks. My tank is aluminum from a PSC 34 1989 and was cover with a black tar on the sides and bottom. I removed most of this covering at a local self-service car wash with the degreaser and high pressure hose (before pressuring testing). I took the opportunity to clean the inside of the tank also and found it to be in supprisingly good shape. I applied two coats of an epoxy tar to the sides and bottom. Re-insertion back into the bilge was very tight and getting the holding rods back across the top of the tank was a little difficult. Oh, btw, I thought those 1.5" round tubes were aluminum and welded in place too, -- they are only pieces of PVC tubing wedged in for support. You can knock them upperward with a hammer. I also took the time, while the tank was out to clean the bilge, replace forward to aft fresh water lines and re-route any electrical wires, and of course check the keel bolts. I have to say that the Rhino lining sound good.
|11-15-2009 07:48 PM|
The zinc chromate paint is reportedly the same as the US Navy uses to protect the aluminum breakdown; the stop was designed by Steve Brodie and should prevent disimilar metal problem since they can not come into contact with one another. I'll learn how to post photos on this site and do so soon.
|11-15-2009 07:37 PM|
Karlin, the zinc based paint is an interesting idea. Since regular zinc anodes are consumed over time, what is the thinking regarding the zinc in the paint? Wouldn't it be used up if it were actually needed?
The isolation stops between the tank and the bolts also sound good, but if salt water is present, wouldn't the current just lead around the stop? If the stop was something like an insulating glass cup, inverted over the bolt and sealed to keep salt water away from the bolts, I could see how that might work - is the idea something like that?
Good luck with your refit, I'd love to hear about the total outcome when it's done (pic's would be really nice).
|11-15-2009 05:47 PM|
Pacific Seacraft is in the process of conducting a total refit of my 88' Crealock 37 and all systems were replaced. Without doubt amongst the most needed items to be corrected was my fuel tank. We used the John Justin original tank instead of the new fiberglass PSC tank as a result of the cost and the decreased capacity in the fiberglass tank. The new aluminum tank was prepped for a zinc based paint to prevent the break down of the metal due to the sea water potential in the bilge. Also, the keel bolts have been rumored to be a problem because of the disimilar metals. We fiberglassed some stops between the keel bolts for absolute protection from the two metals reacting. The end result is a dependable and permanent solution with a total cost of around $1,000 and the fuel capacity unchanged. Good luck!
PSC 37 - 88'
|11-15-2009 03:14 PM|
I like the idea of asking for an additional pickup for a fuel polishing system - keeping the tank / fuel clean eliminates a major source of diesel engine problems and risk in rough weather sailing. I'd also highly recommend checking out the Rhino Liner to save you from having to do this again a ways down the line. The reference I have is:
Berry Marine Tanks
769 Newton Way
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
|11-15-2009 11:55 AM|
I saved the following information from a previous post by Sam
|11-15-2009 11:45 AM|
I just had an aluminum tank made for a PSC34, I'll get the manufacturer's name for you shortly (I believe he is in California). I had the bottom and sides coated with Rhino Lining (see Marine applications on www.RhinoLining.com ) before I installed it back in the boat so it can't be exposed to salt water in the bilge again, thus causing the tank corrosion that is so common on the older PSCs (surveyors recommendation, worked out really well).
I understand that stainless is not recommended for fuel tanks because if they fail, they fail catastrophically. If your bilge is wet, oxygen deprevation may be a factor with submerged stainless.
After watching what has happened with marine fiberglass tanks when ethanol was introduced for gasoline engines (i.e., ethanol acting as a solvent and slowly disolving the tanks), I'm a bit nervous about what could be in store for diesel fuel down the road, thus I was leary about going with a fiberglass tank.
|11-15-2009 10:53 AM|
PSC 34 fuel tank
I think I'm developing a leak at the bottom of my fuel tank. Pretty hard to tell though but seems my most logical conclusion based on location of buildup and the age of the tank. Its an original 1988. I see at the aft upper outboard corners of the tank tubes that are welded to the tank of approx 1.5" diameter.
Anyone know anything about these? Are they just for support? When removing then tank do I just cut through them? Any other difficulties in removing the tank? Read a thread sometime back but can't seem to search it out about getting a new replacement from the original manufacturer of the tank here in California. Anyone have a name for that place? Does a stainless tank make sense? The last one lasted 21 years so alum is probably okay I'd guess. Seems like a very scarey project but fortunately as best I can tell it appears to be fairly straight forward. I heard the new PSC fiberglass replacement is in the neighborhood of $3k. I'd prefer $1k or less if I can swing it.
S/V Charity Rose
'88 PSC 34