|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|12-14-2009 11:48 AM|
thinking about pulling the head and checking the cylinders -- maybe giving the pistons a little assistance from above, the head gasket is still available but no one has the cylinder head bolts westerbeke says it will be 6 weeks to several months until they get around to machining any more
eeek....so in the idea of an expedient end to this problem I don't really want to pull the head, unless anyone has some insight on where I can get cylinder bolts machined? not sure if that's even possible with the specific requirements of engine bolts....or if there's another engine out there with similar bolts I can use?
|12-13-2009 01:32 PM|
I pulled the injectors and it was wet where the injectors go into the case, but it was diesel, could have been mixed with water but not a major detectable amount....I'd been trying to start it before so I think it was left over diesel from the fuel pump
I pulled the injectors and tried to fill the cylinders with marvel mystery oil through there, I did notice I could get more mystery oil to drain in when I opened the valve for each cylinder - I'm considering having someone hold the valves open while I pour MMO into each fuel injector slot until it back fills, I assume that's the only way I'll know the whole crank case is full??
I should also drain the oil from the oil pan before I do that and then the whole crank case should be full right?
and let that sit for a while and keep trying to turn the motor manually using the nut on the crankshaft pully, I'll probably try and pull the starter in a few days and turn the flywheel manually, but I tried it with the starter yesterday and no joy
other suggestions welcome! Any tips from someone familiar with a westerbeke 27 would be much appreciated
|12-13-2009 01:02 PM|
|arf145||So, you pulled the injectors, but were you able to detect water in the cylinders?|
|12-11-2009 12:56 PM|
I removed the fuel injectors this morning and filled the slots they were in marvel mystery oil and pb blaster, I'll let that soak and keep trying to turn the crank shaft pulley every so often
Wish me luck -- and go start your diesel lest you end up facing a rebuild instead of cruising like me
|12-11-2009 12:06 AM|
still working on pulling the injectors -- I think it's a hydrolock/oxidation combination the engine hasn't been started in several months.....
any advice on unseizing an engine is definitely welcome
|12-10-2009 03:36 PM|
Are you sure the engine is seized and isn't simply hydrolocked? If it has sat with water in the cylinders for long enough, it can sometimes have both going on.
A good place to start would be to pull your injectors and take a look inside. If it is dry, try cranking the engine again. If there is water/fuel/anything else sitting in there, you know you had a hydrolock issue.
|12-10-2009 03:25 PM|
good news -- starter works, took it off and jumped it.....
way worse news....engine is seized, tried to manually turn it but no joy, sprayed lots of pb blaster on valve springs with them compressed (valves open) waiting for them to do their thing, also considering removing fuel injectors and filling the cylinders with marvel mystery oil
|12-09-2009 11:20 PM|
|davidpm||If what MS says is the way you are set up, wouldn't you be annoyed when you find out it works fine as long as you push both buttons at the same time no sequentially.|
|12-09-2009 11:01 PM|
Sounds a lot like a bad ground. Most starters are case grounded so be sure you have good ground contact.
Double check the wiring. If it worked fine before something is/was likely not put back together correctly. You can always test jump the starter with a big screw driver and a large spark to rule out a bad ground.... I don't actually advise this unless you really know what you are doing and have done it before...
On many Westerbeke panels the glow plug switch energizes the start switch. If the glow plug switch is not pressed the start switch will not see 12V. Simply test behind the panel to see that when the glow plug switch is pushed the jumper wire is sending voltage to the start switch and that you then have 12V coming out the other side of the start button and still have it at the starter..
|12-09-2009 09:33 PM|
First check to make sure that you have power to your starter solenoid. You can check this by going between the big wire coming from the battery and ground(engine block). If you don't have voltage, your engine is not properly connected to the battery bank (could be ground or hot but it should be a direct wire run for each).
If that is good, check the other side of the solenoid when you are trying to crank. You should see something like 8V or so between the switched side of the solenoid(the big wire/bar going to the actual starter) and ground when cranking. Chances are, if your engine won't crank the 2nd test won't work and the first one may or not.
If the 1st test was good and the 2nd was not, you need to check whether the solenoid is being energized. Check voltage across the two small wires on the solenoid when trying to crank. If there is no power there, then your problem is either in your key switch or low current wiring. If the solenoid is being energized but you failed test 2, you probably need a new solenoid.
I hope that this provides a good place to start. The key is to systematically rule out potential problems using a multimeter.
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