|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-19-2010 08:04 AM|
No need for a rebuild yet
Mine is only five years old this year, and shouldn't need a rebuild. It was part of a repower in 2005, and is part of a system that includes a flexible coupler. It works great.
|01-19-2010 01:28 AM|
When my Lasdrop dripless started leaking after about 12 years, I called them and there are now rebuild kits available for most of them, the most important parts being the 2 new sets of setscrews. They told me to back off the stainless collar, use a very fine emory cloth on surfaces, maybe add some of that sof scrub we use topside with the grit in it, it helps polish the surfaces. Mark the shaft where the collar is b-4 you remove it. There are recomendations on how far to move it towards the bellows depending on the diameter of your prop shaft.With an older one you may need a slight bit more pressure , see what they recomend.My lasdrop gave me 10-12 years of maint free use I can't complain, although with my repower job, new shaft coupler prop, I am going back to a conventional stuffing box.......Red
|01-18-2010 10:29 PM|
I did it
It was tough, but I pulled through. In a truly heroic effort, I managed to fix the leak. After hours of research, and with no help from long descriptions or pictures or pointers from anyone here, I solved the problem. I poked, prodded, felt here and there, and finally pulled the carbon seal away from the stainless steel rotor to let water flow in quickly, and whatever was causing the leak washed away. As soon as I let go, the leak was stopped. Kudos to me. I'm the greatest. I don't know how I do it sometimes.
|01-12-2010 10:31 AM|
Originally Posted by Faster View Post
|01-12-2010 10:28 AM|
|Faster||Not all versions have a vent hose, at least they didn't 10 years ago.|
|01-12-2010 09:06 AM|
I'm beginning to get it
Thanks again, Maine Sail. I'm a little slow on the uptake, but I am beginning to catch on. I'll have to take a fresh look at my setup this weekend. I didn't install the system, so I don't know it very well.
|01-11-2010 11:20 PM|
Originally Posted by drynoc View Post
The black tape is the mark where the rotor sits without any pressure on the bellows. This photos shows the bellows compressed. PYI gives specific distances for compression in their instructions.
|01-11-2010 10:56 PM|
Thanks for all the help
Yes, the hose clamps are tight. I don't believe that is an issue, although I will give them another tweak this weekend. I'm also going to check for debris between the bellows and the metal. I don't believe I have a vent hose. I don't see anything that looks like one. I've also got to do some more studying: I don't understand what you all are saying about sliding parts. Rotating the shaft had a noticeable effect on the drip, so I'm going to start looking at the fit of the parts. Thanks again for all the help, and especially for the long description and the pictures, Maine Sail.
|01-11-2010 12:08 PM|
The "offical" time is 6 years for service
Do you have a vent hose as some dont have it ? i have seen one case were the air from the diver cleaning the boats bottom made a unit run dry and dammage it as it had no vent and it required a manual burping
The unit in the Cal i am repiaring right now had a bellows that was rock hard
|01-11-2010 10:45 AM|
|deniseO30||well, since no one really answered you drynoc. are the 2 clamps really tight? we always put them so that the screw part is 180* opposite of the other. Being in the water is a problem because you could sink your boat if you loosen those and the whole mess pops apart! Possibly you can find clamps that are wider, and replace one then the other?|
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